There are some products from this batch that I’ve reviewed before, so I’ll list them here with links to the relevant empties posts if you’d like to read what I thought:

• Round Lab Birch Juice Sunscreen SPF50

• Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum

• CeraVe Eye Repair Cream

• Nivea Double Effect Waterproof Eye Makeup Remover

So now we can jump straight into the new new. And there’s a lot of new new, since I haven’t done an empties post since September. Eight months ago. Gulp.

Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Moisture Airyfit Daily Sunscreen SPF50+

I previously declared K-beauty sunscreens to be interchangeable but you know what? I take that back, because this is quite unique among them. It has a soft, velvety finish that I really liked under makeup, and you might too if you find most K-beauty sunscreens to be way too dewy. I think… and I don’t want to be too definitive, but… I think this might be my favourite SPF moisturiser that I’ve tried. I’m using the Beauty of Joseon Aqua Fresh one again but for the first time ever, I want to go back specifically to this one. My days of ping-ponging through Styevana’s sunscreen offerings may be over. Heavy on the “may.”

Byoma Ultralight Face Fluid SPF50

This just did not hit, but I have been so spoiled by K-beauty that I did not really expect much from it. It’s too thin and sticky – yes, it has “fluid” in its name, but I guess I didn’t take that seriously enough. I didn’t feel like I was getting enough moisture, and had to buttress it with more toners and serums. I try to keep morning skincare to as few steps as possible, so I need an SPF that can convincingly double as a moisturiser. Not 4 me.

Futurewise Slug Cream Barrier Repair Moisturiser

This brand wasn’t available over here to begin with and is now seemingly gone under, so I’ll keep this brief: I liked this as a richer moisturiser on cold winter nights – not mad heavy, but nicely cocooning.

Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Hyaluronic Toner

I wanted this to feel thicker. I think I actually meant to buy the Haruharu Wonder milky toner, but got bamboozled and ended up with this instead. It’s very watery, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it just didn’t give me that juicy hydrated feeling that I look for in a toner. There has to be a middle ground between the thicc-ness of the Rhode Glazing Milk and this. There just has to be!

Ella & Jo Hydrating Hyaluronic Serum

This is a very lovely hyaluronic acid serum! My mum is a huge fan of Ella & Jo, which was founded by two women from our area, but I hadn’t tried anything from them before this. I’m not loyal to any particular serum, so I will flit on to the next one that catches my eye, but I would like to try their cleansing balm. If you’re also a fan of the brand, let me know if I’m missing out on any product in particular.

Caudalie Vinoperfect Brightening Dark Spot Serum

I bought this when I was pregnant and so sure, absolutely certain, that I was getting melasma on my cheeks that needed to be dealt with STAT. This is supposed to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation – Caudalie claims that the key ingredient is more effective than Vitamin C. You can imagine how this intrigued me. But it’s also €53, so I was expecting to be wowed. I was not wowed. I picked out one area of mild hyperpigmentation to keep an eye on as I used it, and I can’t say it made any sort of difference at all. This serum has rave reviews! People are obsessed with it! Alas, I will be sticking to my silly boring Vitamin C.

A313

Arthur was about two months old before I remembered I could use retinol again (it’s okay while breastfeeding, I checked with a professional, please let me have this one thing). I fled back to the warm embrace of the one I was using before I was preg, which was this French pharmacy staple. The Reddit skincare nerds (I say this lovingly) like to debate its efficacy – it apparently contains the least active form of retinol – but I believe everyone’s skin reacts to products differently and not everyone can tolerate paint stripper levels of retinol. My main quibble with this is that it’s an ointment, so it leaves your face kind of greasy. It’s just not the nicest on an experiential level. Otherwise, I found that it was a good route back into retinol. I’ve moved on to the Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10 which is spenny but nice – more on that in a future empties post.

Tocobo Collagen Brightening Eye Gel Cream

Not fully empty, I just didn’t finish it because it was giving me absolutely nothing. I got it in a Boots skincare box (I needed SPF and cleanser and the box had both for the same price as they would be on their own, a steal) so I don’t feel too bad about abandoning it. It was too thin and watery for me, and my undereyes didn’t look plumped or brightened or anything you want an eye cream to do. I got the Bubble one instead and it was a good decision. Another one for a future empties post.

COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser

A decent foaming cleanser, designed to keep your skin at “its optimal pH level.” I was not using litmus paper to test my skin before and after using it (hello Junior Cert Science) so I can’t attest to the accuracy of this statement. It smells really strongly of tea tree oil which I didn’t love, so I ended up just wanting to be done with it. I went back to the Naturium one, which is just as lovely the second time around.

Anua Heartleaf Quercetinol Pore Deep Cleansing Foam

This was a shower cleanser and I can’t remember too much about it, other than it was perfectly fine? I had to Google what “quercetinol” was – it’s an anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from the heartleaf plant, which is Anua’s whole thing. It cleaned my face, and that’s all I needed it to do.

Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm

“It cleaned my face, and that’s all I needed it to do” could also be my review of this Beauty of Joseon cleansing balm. There are zero bells and whistles – no scent, no colour, barely a whisper of copy on the packaging – but it removed my makeup so I guess I can’t complain.

Maybelline Superlock Brow Glue

In my 2025 favourites post, I said this was the only brow gel that didn’t go crusty on me, and I stand by this! It did get a bit gunky towards the end and lost some of its effectiveness, but we had a good time while it lasted. I replaced it with the L’Oreal Brow Lamination Gel, which is same same but different.

Clio Kill Lash Superproof Mascara in Volume Curling

I held on to this for way too long because I needed to remind myself to get another. This is SUCH a great mascara – the brush is so skinny and precise, and the formula locks in a curl all day. I wouldn’t say it gives major volume, despite the name, but I like it for a more fluttery, subtle look. The only thing is it’s an absolute bitch to remove, but a good eye makeup remover (like the Nivea one I mentioned at the top of this post) will do the trick.

Revolution Wrap Lash Tubing Mascara

I hated this, lol. It was so heavy that my lashes felt weighed down. I also do not think it’s actually a tubing mascara, because removing it was so difficult. It came off all right, though not in neat little tubes but clumps that ended up all over my face. Isn’t the whole point of tubing mascaras that you just need a wee bit of water to take them off? This was so much work. I was not a fan.

NYX Micro Brow Pencil in Ash Brown

I could not believe how long this lasted. I had it for what felt like years, twisting up that tiny little pencil, certain every time I used it that the end was nigh. But it just kept going! This is NYX’s Anastasia dupe and it’s spot on and I intend to repurchase it and have it for years again. I won’t mess with this particular good thing.

Laneige Lip Glowy Balm in Berry

I try to keep things minimal in the lip balm department, because I know if I let myself I’d have a tube of every single trendy one going. This was my handbag balm for ages, to match my bedside balm (the Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask). I really liked it! It’s more glossy than the OG Lip Sleeping Mask, but they share the same cushiony, slippery texture. It looked equally nice on bare lips as it did with a bit of lip liner. Ideal.

Vaseline Cocoa Radiant Body Oil

Another product I just wanted to be over. I do not enjoy the texture of this – it comes out like a jelly then transforms to oil on the skin. However, it didn’t seem to want to be applied to wet skin, which I think is the entire point of a body oil? I would rub it in and it would just move around rather than sink in. I also found the scent cloying. Just bad all around and yet I didn’t give up because some part of me must like the misery. I’ve moved on to the Saltair Saltwater Vanilla Body Oil, which has finally answered my prayer for a nice smelling body oil that doesn’t cost the earth (I also want the body butter maybe I shall get it As A Treat).

Fino Premium Touch Hair Mask

This was on the Stylevana bestsellers page and I threw it into an order because why the hell not? But it could be literally any hair mask you get in Boots (though judging by how Boots are going with Asian beauty brands, they probably already stock it). It’s very silicone-forward which I don’t mind because my hair be tangly as fook, but nothing special overall.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! God, that felt like a marathon. If you’re still here, well done. I’ll see you soon for the next newsletter!

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The boring ones

Your beiges, your browns, your beige-y browns

Clockwise from the top left: Charlotte Tilbury, About-face, Kiko, Merit, Vieve

Vieve Eye Wand in Hazelnut

I’ve written about this so many times at this stage, but it’s just a perfect neutral-ish brown shade that’s so easy to scribble on and blend out. I’m sure you can find a version of this colour from every brand that does eyeshadow sticks, but this is the one I have and I like it a lot.

Kiko Milano Long Lasting Eyeshadow Stick in 16 Taupe

This is the cool-toned version of the Vieve stick, a greyish taupe that’s similarly easy to apply. My favourite quick little eye look at the moment is this paired with a bit of the Vieve Eye Wand in Espresso (a dark brown) as eyeliner. If you also have green eyes, this could be a good shout, as I find it really complements my eye colour.

About-face Matte Fluid Eye Paint in Capulets

Another one that has received a lot of love on this newsletter already, and possibly the most boring shade of them all. I should caveat that there are some exciting shades of this Matte Eye Fluid – I just picked the one that is about two shades darker than my actual skin. And what of it! I find it very useful as a backdrop to a little smoked-out wing! Not everything needs to reinvent the wheel.

Merit Solo Shadow Sheen in Sartorial

A boring brown… but slightly shiny! Merit launched in Ireland last year and while their lip products are the best part of their offering (in my opinion – the new Signature Lip Blush formula especially), I couldn’t resist trying one of their cream shadows. I wouldn’t say that this is a very unique product, but I’ve still been using it a lot. It’s sheer, it’s subtle, it’s the ideal touch of eye makeup for every day.

Charlotte Tilbury Eyes to Mesmerise in Oyster Pearl

This shade is new to me, the formula is not. The typically florid description on the CT website says it has “long-wear film formers” to make it less prone to smudging and creasing, but it definitely does on me. Every single shadow I have does this so I can’t say it’s particularly a dealbreaker. And this shade, a metallic taupe, is exactly in my wheelhouse - a little touch of almost glossy colour on the lids.

The fun ones

Duochromes, metallics, and glitters

Clockwise from the top left: Half Magic, Urban Decay, Bobbi Brown, Violette_FR, MAC

Half Magic Eyeshadow Single in Blushing Lizard

This is the kind of eyeshadow I would have worn every day in 2017, lol. A frosty mauve-pink with a blue shift, it looks almost glasslike on the lids – really, you have to see it in motion to get the full effect. It’s so special and so fun. There are about seven more shades in this range that I’d love to try – Wet Pebble! Possessed Pearl! Sparkle Puff! – but I really am trying to exercise restraint.

Violette_FR Yeux Paint in Scarabée D’Or

This liquid eyeshadow comes in so many great shades, and I myself own a few, but this is the one I find myself reaching for the most. I think this kind of gold-olive is so cool when used as a light wash with an orangey red lip in the summer, or dialled up as a more grungey smoky eye. It’s quite wearable while also being a bit more interesting than your standard brown.

MAC Extra Dimension Eyeshadow in Smokey Mauve

This was in my 2025 favourites and the inspiration for this post. Like the Violette_FR shadow above, when I’m trying to steer myself away from boring brown, this is where I often land – a soft, sparkly purple that does great things for my green eyes. It makes me so nostalgic for MAC single shadows past. Woodwinked, Cranberry, Nylon… how I loved thee.

Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow in Space Cowboy

I was #influenced to buy this a few years back, and I do enjoy its soft, neutral sparkle that leans neither gold nor silver, meaning it goes with lots of different looks. This is kind of cheating because while I have worn it alone quite a bit, I like it best patted over one of the boring brows I mentioned earlier in this post. Something about the base shadow colour pulls a bit orange on me, which takes away from the pretty glitter, so I find using it as a topper allows it to shine.

Bobbi Brown Luxe Eyeshadow in Moonstone

This is often compared to Space Cowboy, but I don’t think they’re that similar? I like each of them for different things. Space Cowboy is soft enough for every day, in my opinion, but this one was made for a PARTY. It’s packed with sparkle, and again has that lovely neutral tone - but crucially, there is no base shadow, so nothing is interfering with that champagne-y colour. I love wearing this to set off a red lip.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! You think you couldn’t possibly write nearly 1000 words on various brown and sparkly eyeshadows and then you find yourself writing nearly 1000 words on brown and sparkly eyeshadows. Life’s crazy like that I guess. See you soon for an empties post!

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Writing this made me a little ashamed of my errant spending (especially when I’m just after failing to complete a no-buy). But here it is, and it’s a lesson to myself to be more mindful going forward.

Giorgio Armani Eye Tint in 10S Senso

People LOVE this liquid eyeshadow formula. So when I found myself wandering through duty free a while back with a mind to buy myself something nice, I picked up. Cut to several hours later, applying it in a hotel room and thinking… why is this so bad? Why does it blend away into nothing? Why is it patchy when I try to build it up on itself? I had the same experience the next time I tried to wear it. Maybe it’s this particular shade, maybe it’s just me. I won’t be buying another shade to check. I rehomed this one with a friend and I hope she’s having better luck.

Lisa Eldridge Velveteen Liquid Lip Colour in Dragon and Jazz

This feels like sacrilege, because I’m such a huge Lisa Eldridge fan. It’s not that I think the product is bad, it’s more that I don’t wear matte liquid lipsticks like this any more. Too dry, too finicky to apply. I definitely didn’t need to buy two shades, which is a habit I am still trying to break. It’s a good reminder to actually think before I hit Pay Now in a frenzy, and definitely to consider whether it’s necessary to get more than one. (The answer is nearly always no.) I maintain that her regular bullet lipsticks are absolutely worth the money, and the newer refillable ones make a gorgeous gift. If she released these liquid lipsticks in a softer, mousse-ier formula I’d probably be all over it, though.

Make Up For Ever HD Skin All-in-One Palette

This is one of those instances where I don’t even know what I was thinking. I figured it would be handy for travel, I guess? As if I would ever travel with simply this and not a carefully considered bag containing every possible blush and lip combo. On top of that, the palette just isn’t right for me – the blushes are too peachy and coral-y when I’m more of a mauve and pink gal, I don’t really enjoy cream foundation, the bronzer shades are off... It was just a dumb purchase all around. If I know you IRL and you’d like it, please shout and I will happily give it to you.

And now for the ones I think are worth it. Which is subjective, as you might believe that paying €52 for a blush stick is ridiculous. I clearly do not agree. So if you also have expensive taste, keep reading.

Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick in Garconne

You know when I said you don’t always need more than one shade of something? I don’t mean these. They’re so expensive, but they’re so GOOD. And you really get the full luxury experience, right down to the magnetic closure on the pleasingly heavy packaging. I find the shades to be interesting but not too out there – Garconne can pull mauve or brick red depending on what other makeup I’m wearing – and the formula makes application effortless. It is so annoying when expensive things are, in fact, better. I would love to try more Westman Atelier stuff but I’ve hit the financially lean part of my maternity leave so… maybe next Christmas.

Danessa Myricks Lightwork Freedom Palettes

These are pricey eyeshadow palettes. And also limited edition, I believe. But if you like glitter, and metallics, and unusual colours, I think these are the best around, housed in a clever and very practical magnetic case. I recently mixed a few of the duochrome topper shades from the Freedom VI palette to make this gorgeous opalescent look and no one else probably noticed but I did, and I loved it. I’m happy to pay for quality like this in eyeshadows, but less so with complexion products – everyone’s on about the Victoria Beckham foundation drops, but I can’t see myself ever going there without a hefty discount, because I already have plenty of foundations I like. These eyeshadows feel unique to me, and challenge me to have more fun with my makeup. And so, I splurge.

Rouge Dior Forever Liquid Sequin in 999

This appears to directly contradict my earlier assertion that I don’t wear liquid lipsticks anymore BUT I will say this is not your typical liquid lipstick. It goes on like one, sure, but then when you press your lips together… glitter appears! And it is just delightful to me. Dior do a version of this every festive season (this year’s was a duo with a gloss) and while it’s obviously not a product I use every day, I just think it’s neat. And the perfect Christmas Day red, if you enjoy getting glammed up for the kitchen table like me. There’s room in my life for an impractical but joyful product such as this one.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! Please tell me the expensive things YOU think are worse and/or better. I am always happy to update my wishlist. See you soon for the next one!

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As for breaking the no-buy - well, there’s only so much you can do when you’re trying to keep yourself awake in the middle of the night. Scrolling turned to shopping. I’m not exactly proud but look, now I have some new favourites to write about, so… who can say it was so wrong (my bank account, if it could talk).

To start with, let me name some favourites that are repeats from last year:

• Lisa Eldridge Seamless Skin Tint in T6: Perfect amount of coverage for regular days, spot-on shade, only looks better as the day wears on.

• Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Concealer and Foundation: I have banged on about these SO bloody much in this newsletter but honestly, the concealer is the only one I use and the foundation is my go-to when I need more coverage. A more in depth review can be found in this post!

• Elf Lip Oil in Jam Session: I reckon… and I don’t want to get ahead of myself but… I could finish this in a month or two. It’s my default lip product and goes with all my favourite liners and stains. I just love it m8.

• Lisa Eldridge Sculpt and Shade Lip Pencil in 2C: This liner is my lip colour but better and frequently paired with the Elf lip oil. May it never be discontinued.

Now, on to the new stuff:

Sacheu Lip Liner Stain in Muah-ve

This is what made me break the no-buy, I think? I’d wanted to try these stains for ages and I saw them on the Boots site when I was buying Baby Stuff and it just… slipped into my basket. Honestly, I’m very glad it did. It really does stain! You look a bit wild while it dries down, but then the shiny, dark coat peels off to reveal a very soft but long-wearing tint. Fun and functional!

Benefit Benetint

Speaking of tints… Benetint was just IT for me this year. It was the exact shade and formula I wanted for my lips, especially in the summer - light, natural, and easier to use than I thought it would be. I’ve had the original shade for years, but after the no buy went out the window I bought the new Black Cherry shade and that has carried me through the autumn and winter. My favourites this year have been a real mix of throwbacks (more on this later) and new innovations, such as…

Fwee Pudding Pots in Hurt and Memories

…These mousse-y, bouncy wonders from Fwee! God, I love K-beauty. These are lip and cheek colours, but I’ve used them primarily as blush. There are so many shades, but I went for a mauve (Hurt) and a rosy red (Memories). They create a soft, blurred look on the cheek - more matte than I usually go for with blush, but I’ve been really into it. And how cute is the packaging? I would have killed for these in 2007.

Maybelline Superlock Brow Glue

This is not a remarkable product by any stretch, given that it’s a clear brow gel, but it’s the only one I’ve ever found that doesn’t make my brows go crusty and white and collapse on me in about two minutes. I really hate doing my brows but this product makes the experience a bit better, so why not award it a place in my favourites? I’d love to try the new KJH brow gel though, so don’t expect me to be loyal.

MAC Extra Dimension Eyeshadow in Smokey Mauve

A MAC single eyeshadow feels like such a throwback - has anyone else noticed MAC having a bit of a resurgence of late? All the cool makeup girlies I follow are talking about their favourite MAC liners and lipsticks and eyeshadows, then Chappell Roan and Doja Cat became the new faces of the brand… I’m here for it. MAC has such a special place in my heart as the first “grown up” brand I was able to buy from. I got my makeup done at the counter in Macy’s on my first trip to New York when I was 16 and treasured the products I got (some single eyeshadows and a really sticky lipgloss) for literal years.

Where was I? Oh yes, Smokey Mauve. This is a beautiful one-and-done eyeshadow - sometimes purples can read too dark and bruised on me, but this looks ethereal and twinkly, a grown-up version of the frosty shadows of my youth. And more interesting than brown, which I started becoming too reliant on. Ooh, I need to do a post on my favourite one-and-done shadows. Put that on the list for 2026.

Glossier You Doux

I was certainly not a fan of the OG Glossier You perfume (on me it smelled like sweat? Ew) but this spinoff is just gorgeous. It’s pretty unisex to me, woody and slightly sweet. I love smelling it on my clothes after I’ve been wearing it. I bought the mini size in New York at the start of the year, breezed through it, then got the full size when there was 20% off at Space NK in the summer (though they literally do 20% off once a month it seems… learn from my mistakes and wait before pulling the trigger on anything full price). If that isn’t a vote of confidence I don’t know what is.

About-face The Performer Foundation

I wasn’t going to include this as it’s a fairly recent purchase, but then I realised I was using it a lot, so why not throw it in? I hummed and hawed over this for ages - I almost bought it in New York in February but got overwhelmed at the stand in Ulta. Then when About-face launched at Space NK I snapped it up for 20% off (like I said, they do that discount all the time).

I love the liquid eyeshadows from this brand and the description of the foundation was extremely appealing - skin-friendly, lightweight, buildable. All this feels very true, in my opinion. The shade range is expansive, but I found a fairly spot on match in L2 Neutral. To me, this is a bridge between the Lisa Eldridge skin tint and the Haus Labs foundation, great for times when I want a small bit more coverage without going All Out. I also love the packaging and the big doe foot applicator - it’s just fun idk! And for €24, it’s definitely on the affordable side. Would recommend!

Whatever blend of pregnancy/breastfeeding hormones I got

My skin was the best it ever looked. It’s still pretty good, but I fear time is running out. I’m also noticing more hairs in the brush/on my clothes these days so the postpartum hair loss is probably beginning. The joys!

And my bebe

LOL, of course. This is not going to be a parenting newsletter but I have to acknowledge this fairly seismic change to my life. I’m new to the game, obviously, but I can’t believe how much I’m enjoying being a mother. Please do not take this in a trad-wife-y kind of way. But he’s a sweet little peanut who smiles and coos softly when I walk into a room and I get such a kick out of it, every time. I feel more patient and capable than I thought possible. I got pooped on a few weeks ago (I won’t divulge too much detail but… we both had to immediately change clothes) and basically shrugged. Isn’t that wild?

I don’t know if any other millennial parents can relate to this, but I was frankly terrified about having kids, even though I knew I wanted them. The motherhood discourse pendulum has swung from “everything’s perfect and I love it all the time” to “it’s awful and I don’t recognise myself” and while it’s important that these perspectives are shared, it made me expect the absolute worst. And there have been difficult parts (for example, getting pooped on) but there has been so, so much good. I know I’m lucky that this has been the case. Anyway. He’s my top favourite.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! Hope you all had a lovely Christmas, and I’m wishing you the very best for 2026. I’ll talk to ye then!

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Yes! I had a baby! And he’s a sweet little guy, even though he was nine days overdue and had to be forcibly extracted from the womb. The only word I have to describe the first month of parenthood is “bewildering” - we really do be flying by the seat of our pants 85% of the time, and any confidence we have during the other 15% is quickly proven to be false. I’m wrecked and weepy and leaky and very sure that I’d do anything for him. It’s nuts.

Maternity leave currently involves a certain amount of sitting around with a sleepy or hungry baby attached to me, and I have reached my scrolling limit and really want to use my brain (not that empties posts are extremely challenging, but… it’s something). So here I am, digging through my sizeable rubbish bag once again.

Byoma Hydrating Milky Toner

I’ve heard this is a pretty close relative of the Rhode Glazing Milk, but I haven’t tried that, so I can’t speak to how similar they are. What I do know is that this is a lovely layer of hydration for under my serums and I liked using it. My only quibble with Byoma is how bulky the packaging is - if I put the two products mentioned in this post in my toiletry bag, there’d barely be room for anything else. But I get that the chunky, bright packaging is very eye-catching for the kiddies begging their mas to buy them a ten-step skincare routine. (All in good time Arthur.) At least the stuff inside is good! Which leads me to…

Byoma Creamy Jelly Cleanser

…another Byoma product! This is a basic but nice milky jelly cleanser that left my skin feeling clean but not dry. This is my favourite type of cleanser I think - something about how the gel emulsifies just feels very effective. I wouldn’t say it reinvents the jelly cleanser wheel, but it’s certainly a good, affordable option.

CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser

A CeraVe cleanser? In my empties post? It’s more likely than you think. You know the drill - these cleansers are staples in my routine and I’m a fan of pretty much every variation.

Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil

This is always up the top in the Stylevana bestsellers tab so naturally I had to try it. And a perfectly good cleansing oil it is! I needed something stronger for my waterproof mascara (see below) but this removed all my other makeup without issue. I don’t think it’s a very unique product, but I was happy with how it performed.

Nivea Waterproof Eye Makeup Remover

So cheap, does what it says on the tin, have already bought another one.

Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturising Sunscreen SPF 50+

I was wondering how I’d gotten through three SPF moisturisers since my last empties post, and then I checked said post and saw it was published in early May. Time is a flat circle. I widened my Korean SPF net with my last restock - I think at this stage I can confidently say that they’re all good and I can’t really tell the difference between most of them. This one maybe had a slightly stronger scent than others I’ve tried, but the texture and hydration was equivalent. Still enjoyed it, but I can’t say I neeeeed to get this one above all others.

Skin1004 Hyalu-Cica Water Fit Sunscreen SPF 50+

My third one of these, I like it a lot, see my review in an earlier empties post.

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+

I’ve used and loved the OG Beauty of Joseon SPF, so I decided to go absolutely mad and try the Aqua Fresh version this time. And I think I prefer it? I like that water-gel moisturiser texture in general, and it feels less thick but no less hydrating than the original. If that one was maybe too heavy for you, Aqua Fresh could suit you better.

Kate Somerville DermaQuench Liquid Lift Advanced Hydration Treatment

The things I pull from the back of the bathroom cabinet from the magazine days. This was probably way too old and needed binning but it was sealed so waste not, want not. These serums are weird - I used a different version before and I can’t really understand why it needs to be an aerosol? It comes out as a thin foam which doesn’t really add much to the effect or experience. A gimmick, probably. I didn’t observe this to be any more hydrating than a serum with a regular old pump or dropper and I know it costs a million euro, so I won’t be trying it again.

The Inkey List 15% Vitamin C and EGF Serum

In a previous empties post I compared this to the Naturium Vitamin C serum, but actually now that I’m back to the Naturium, I want to correct myself and say they’re slightly different. The Naturium one feels slightly thicker and more hydrating, while this is thin, like the Skinceuticals ones. I still liked it, though! This is the first time I’ve actually thought to look up what the EGF part is - turns out, peptides. So there is a hydrating property to it, it’s just not very apparent on application.

Naturium The Perfector Salicylic Acid Body Wash

I like a little treatment body wash! And this one was good - no bells or whistles or fragrance, just body acne-fighting ingredients. I did notice that my usual little chest spots disappeared… but that could have been a side effect of pregnancy, as my skin in general was the best it’s ever been and I’m just dreading what’s going to happen when my hormones regulate again. Has anyone successfully kept their good skin from pregnancy? Let me know because I’d like to continue in this manner please.

L’Occitane Almond Shower Oil

A while ago, I tried the Aldi dupe of this product and found the scent cloying and fake. So… naturally I bought the real thing to see if it lived up to the many, many glowing reviews I’ve seen online. My verdict is: Meh? It’s fine. I just don’t think I love the almond scent, either in the dupe or the genuine article. I did enjoy the shower oil texture though, so maybe that’s an avenue for me to explore. Adventures in shower products! This is how I get my kicks now.

Naturium Bio-Lipid Restoring Body Lotion

This isn’t totally finished, but every single body lotion with a pump inevitably becomes unusable towards the end and I could not be bothered rooting around to extract the last bits. There has to be a better way! But it’s not up to me to decipher it. I liked this well enough - it’s rich and nourishing, but I’ve come to the conclusion that I prefer my body lotions to have a scent, just to make applying them that little bit more appealing. Even a light vanilla or coconut fragrance would take this to the next level for me. But if you’re someone who avoids scented products (I know there are tons of you out there), it may just be exactly what you’re looking for.

Bio Oil

Spot the new mam. Listen, I know the likelihood of getting stretch marks is mostly down to genetics, but I slapped this on anyway. Still got stretch marks, of course, but moisturising your skin is never a bad idea. It’s grand, but in future I’ll just stick to my regular body oil.

Color Wow Money Mist

Now that my hair is longer again, I like a little leave-in conditioner to make brushing it out less horrific. I will admit I was completely taken in by the name of this mist - money! Don’t we all want Rich Lady Hair? And while I can’t say it automatically transforms my hair into a sleek, bouncy blow dry, it does make it considerably less frizzy and a lot nicer to brush. I’ve kept the bottle to fill with water so I can “reactivate my waves” (IDK I’ve seen people do this) on second-day hair. Reduce reuse recycle!

Saie Glowy Super Gel in Starglow

This was among the makeup products I wanted to finish so I’m delighted with myself - was it just a mini? Yeah, but that’s besides the point. The Saie Glowy Super Gel is a nice little illuminating base that feels more hydrating than the Hollywood Flawless Filters of the world. I really liked using it under the Lisa Eldridge skin tint, and noticed that my skin stayed looking radiant all day. I’m not going to purchase a full size for now, as I have way too many shiny things to work through, but I’d certainly consider it in the future.

Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment in Salted Caramel

So… when I first bought this, I really liked it. The scent is so nice, the shine is akin to a gloss, and it feels decently moisturising. Then, as many Rhode shoppers have also discovered, it went gritty. The formula starts to crystallise after a certain amount of time, I guess? Which is a highly unpleasant sensation on the lips. I relegated it to a desk lip balm, and living beside a window did help it to reconstitute itself a little, but you’d really expect more from a not-inexpensive product by Mrs Bieber. I’m not sure if the problem has been rectified in the newer balms, but even so, I won’t be repurchasing.

L’Oréal Panorama Mascara

Every so often I buy a non-waterproof mascara and am reminded of why I don’t wear non-waterproof mascaras. This is technically a good one - for the first few minutes, you really do have panoramic, fluttery lashes. It also had a nice consistency from the very beginning, and I didn't have to wait for it to dry up a bit, as I usually do with mascara. But then I look away from the mirror and look back again and my lashes have drooped. The only thing that holds a curl for me is waterproof. I have learned my lesson.

L’Oréal Lash Paradise Waterproof Mascara

See! I should have just bought this again. It stays on through everything and holds the curl. If I’m going to squeeze my lashes into shape with a metal device that looks like it’s for torture, I want said shape to stay all day.

Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club

Goodbye to a real one! For now. I will definitely be buying another bottle of this at some point down the line. It’s the scent I wore for my wedding, rich and warm and delicious. A while ago someone walked past me smelling absolutely gorgeous and I realised it was this and felt very smug. It’s just fab.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! Writing this over the last few days has been so fun, almost like a little treat. I can’t promise to be back very soon, but I hope not to leave it too long before the next one!

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Also: I’m now almost six months into my beauty no-buy, and still haven’t done any impulse makeup shopping. Have I gone on the usual websites to browse the New In pages? Yes. Did I come very close to hitting “add to cart” on that Cult Beauty blush edit thing that I definitely didn’t need? I will admit that I did. But hand on heart, my beauty purchases over the first half of 2025 have amounted to skincare replacements and a full-size bottle of Glossier You Deux (it was 20% off and I’d just finished my bottle of Jazz Club, so let’s call it a necessity). It hasn’t felt very difficult, but maybe that’s because I have some expensive things going on in other parts of my life, so the money is certainly being used elsewhere.

I recently moved all my makeup into some new storage – god bless the IKEA Alex unit – and now that everything is just a little more accessible, some forgotten items have been thrown back into my rotation.

Benefit Benetint

This had a bit of a resurgence online a while back, which is undoubtedly what led to me purchasing it, whereupon it was immediately swallowed up by my makeup drawer. But recently, I’ve found myself looking again and again for a soft berry-pink lip colour, and this is the perfect one. I was honestly quite surprised when I twigged that I was wearing it for the third time in a week. Benetint? Not some sort of Korean innovation or one of those new peel-off lip stains, but ancient old Benetint? Yeah. Little bit of lipliner (Lisa Eldridge in 2C or Rimmel Cappuccino), little bit of this, little bit of gloss (the ELF Glow Reviver lip oil, more often than not) = the only colour I really want to wear this summer.

Half Magic Glitterpuck in Dopamine Sparkle

I love Urban Decay Space Cowboy, right? But recently there have been a few occasions on which I have found it almost not glittery enough. Enter Glitterpuck, which I 100% forgot I had. This pressed glitter can offer a gentle wash of pinky-gold sparkle, or be built up for more impact, which is what I’ve been looking for lately. Half Magic is such a fun brand and some day, when I’m spending money on makeup again, I will buy their Blushing Lizard eyeshadow and Punk Pony Sparklestik – but for now, I am thoroughly enjoying this.

Huda Beauty Blush Filter in Strawberry Cream and Haus Labs Bio-Radiant Gel Powder Highlighter in Rose Quartz

I’ve written about both these products before, but wow is this my favourite ~*blush combo*~ at the moment. If you also want to be sheeny and pink-cheeked, I cannot recommend this duo any more. I apply the Huda Beauty blush first for a milky-pink base, then dust on the Haus Labs highlighter to really amp it all up. The whole effect is so cherubic and sugar-plum-fairy-like. Looking at all these makeup favourites so far, I am clearly having a Pink Moment. It just feels very right for right now. If that makes sense.

Dae Cactus Fruit 3-in-1 Styling Cream

I had no knowledge about this brand, only that this product kept coming up da girlies’ “What I bought in Sephora” TikToks ahead of our New York trip in late January and I love a bandwagon. Now I’m seeing it was founded by a (seemingly former?) Mormon momfluencer, which is about the most American thing you can be. Anyway maybe I need to flag down the little Mormon missionary laddeens the next time I see them on O’Connell Street and thank them, because this is a very nice hair product.

I work a small amount through my damp hair post-shower to add some definition to my waves, and I honestly do find it makes my air-drying look more purposeful and less couldn’t-be-arsed. It appears to be more commonly used to create slicked-back hair styles, but I cannot vouch for that myself. I’m annoyed that I am once again getting attached to a product that’s unavailable over here, but I wonder if The Smooth Company’s styling cream might be a worthy replacement? Home grown and all.

Saltair Santal Bloom Moisture Bound Hair Oil

A second US-exclusive hair favourite has hit the Vanity Project newsletter. I apologise, but maybe it will be useful if any of you are making the (increasingly unwise) decision to set foot in that country soon. This I found in the Target in Times’ Square – awful place – when Derek was off looking for hand cream to soothe his NYC-winter-eaten hands. (He somehow came out with the EOS one beloved by TikTok, which made me laugh.) I was taken immediately by the gorgeous scent of this hair oil, warm and woody and ricchhhhh. I use it more for the fragrance than the hair benefits, but they can’t hurt either. The same scent exists in a body oil and lotion, but I could not find either of them for the life of me. I just want to smell really nice and have people tell me I smell really nice, which happens occasionally but not often enough! Why do you have to make it so hard, Saltair?

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! Not to be mysterious on main but I am very distracted by life right now so I appreciate you sticking around. Alright go on good luck bye bye!

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Anyway, here are my empties from the past few months.

Charlotte Tilbury Magic Water Cream

As I’ve mentioned before, this newsletter has its upsides, which is that sometimes my loved ones read it and buy me things I like. My mum (and I guess my dad too, though I don’t know how much say he had in it) got me another jar of this for my birthday in October and it was just as nice as it was the first time – light but deeply hydrating, glow-giving, luxurious. I could in theory get a refill tub for €85, but… well, you and I both know I won’t. Sometimes a treat is meant to be just that: a treat.

Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask in Apple Lime

It takes me well over a year to use up one of these – I just checked, and the last time it appeared in an empties post was September 2023. And that’s with daily application! I have another one ready to go OF COURSE, this time in the Grapefruit scent. I really liked this sherbet-y Apple Lime one, though it seems to have been a limited edition.

Skin1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50+

I think this is my favourite of all the Asian SPFs I’ve tried (though if anyone has any recommendations for different ones, let me know – I’ve used Isntree, Beauty of Joseon, and Biore before). It just feels beautiful on my skin, imparts a little glow without grease, and of course offers a good amount of protection. I got a two-pack in my last order, and I am grateful to my past self for ensuring I’d have a backup.

CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF50

I used this before my Skin1004 SPF arrived, and despite me being in thrall to K-beauty SPFs, it was a perfectly enjoyable experience. I find it to be very thick and moisturising – I can feel it on my skin for a while after application. This may not be for everyone, but it was nice over the colder months and gave me a good base for my makeup. I would happily buy this again, but right now I think I’d pick up the new Byoma SPF50, just to see what it’s like.

CeraVe Eye Repair Cream

I decided it was safe to finally deviate from my usual La Roche-Posay eye cream after dealing with some gross eyelid eczema in 2023, and thankfully, my eyes remain happy! This is a really nice, affordable option – it feels nourishing without being thick, applies smoothly, and as a bonus, creates a good foundation for concealer. I’m already on to my second tube.

Skinoren Azelaic Acid 15% Gel

Another one, thank you. I’ve spoken before about the benefits of azelaic acid for my skin, so I won’t bore you with it again, but I will be asking my doctor for another prescription with haste.

Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum

Light the beacons! I have found a cheaper Vitamin C serum that a) works and b) does not roll off my skin as soon as I put makeup on. The consistency is nice – not as runny as the Skinceuticals serums, but not a thick paste like some other Vitamin Cs. It feels good to apply and brightens my skin without irritation. Lovely! I replaced it with The Inkey List’s 15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum, which appears very similar to me, so it’s possible that I now have two serums to choose from. Good Vitamin C serums are like buses…

Aveeno Skin Relief Body Oil Spray

Going through body products is always a win. Body oil straight after the shower has been a game-changer for me when it comes to actually moisturising my body. This was fine – I liked the oil, I liked the easy-to-use spray bottle. But alas, it smells like a Victoria’s Secret. Very sweet, very artificial, just not my favourite type of scent. Whither the body oils for a more refined sniffer? (I know where they are and I know they’re probably one million euro for 5ml). I don’t think it would turn me off buying it again, but it’d be nice to find a Boots-level oil that ticks allllll the boxes.

Pestle & Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum

This is a very standard hyaluronic acid serum. Not that it isn’t nice, it just doesn’t really stand out. For €45, I’d rather get a few cheaper moisturising products that do essentially the same thing. Maybe the Naturium hyaluronic acid (€22) and the new Inkey List ceramide moisturiser (€23.50), for example.

Glossier You Doux

Oh this one hurts. I bought this mini on a fragrant whim in the Glossier store in New York in February, and clearly I liked it very much. I wasn’t a fan of the original You scent – admittedly, I only had a sample, but it didn’t entice me into buying a full size. You Doux, however, is delicious. Woody, spicy, with a hint of sweetness. I get compliments on it all the time, which is really all you want. I will procure a full size bottle at some stage, but for now, I’ll go back to my Jazz Club (which is also on its last legs. Perfume drought incoming).

Refy Brow Sculpt

This is the first of two products that are not completely finished but have just become unusable to me. First is the Refy Brow Sculpt, which I have used to varying degrees of success for two years now before finally giving up the ghost. The brush is large, meaning the product just gets everywhere, and the more you try to work it in, the more it goes white and crusty. It held up my very stubborn brows, so I persevered, despite looking in the mirror at the end of the day and thinking omg was I going around with crusty fucking brows all this time. As my tube aged, the crustiness increased, and I just couldn’t take it any more. I replaced it with the Maybelline Super Lock Brow Glue, which does everything I wanted the Refy to do. Honestly: Get this one. It’s got a strong hold that lasts, it doesn’t leave any crusties, and it’s cheaper.

Glossier Boy Brow in Brown

I have gone through so many tubes of this, and am yet to find a tinted brow gel that I like more. Some are just too dry and flaky, others too wet, so that more product gets on your skin than on your brows. My one gripe is that the hold isn’t what I’d like it to be, but you can’t have it all. I will probably purchase this again at some point – for now, I’ve replaced it with the Maybelline Superfluff Brow Mousse, which unfortunately falls into the first category of tinted brow gel: dry and flaky. But I’ve made my bed, so I’ll lie in it.

Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Contour Wand in Fair-Medium

The second product that has just become unusable to me! And who is surprised, given its infamous packaging. There is probably plenty left, but every time I take the cap off, I’m confronted with a leaky mess (even with the applicator switched to the off setting!!!). It’s a shame because the stuff inside is so nice, but now that I have the equally lovely Rare Beauty liquid contour, it’s just not worth fighting with it any more. I don’t know why Ms Tilbury is so attached to those awful sponges.

Evo Shebang-a-bang Dry Spray Wax

I bought this from my hairdresser when I first cut my hair into a bob in the summer of 2023, thinking that this would be all it took to get the effortless, tousled look I left her salon with. Not so! I don’t know if it’s my hair texture changing or what, but this time around, I found styling short hair to be so much work. Yes, yes, I wrote a big piece when I cut it off about how I felt “like myself again” but to be honest I now feel like the me that had short hair for about 15 years is actually no longer me. My hair is well past my collarbones again now and guess what? I’m delighted. It actually curls. It makes shapes I recognise. I can put it up in a claw clip when it starts pissing me off. And I plan to keep growing it! Down to my knees even!

All this is not a dig at the texture spray, which was nice, but I associate it with a Difficult Hair Period and as such I will not be repurchasing. Still, I thank it for its service.

Thank you for reading Vanity Project! I’m actually cooking up a sequel to this post right now, since I’ve never stopped being a judgy wee strap. Coming soon!

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Of all the pop girlies that emerged during my teenage years, she seemed the most “for me” – weird, theatrical, daring, a little bit dark. I remember following the Just Dance music video around the Sky music channels (whither Colby O’Donis?), copying the Bad Romance choreo, and downloading a dodgy 30-second leak of Government Hooker on my iPod. I have rooted for her fiercely through all the ups and downs of her career (Joanne and Chromatica both got heavy airplay in my house) and felt my hackles rise whenever someone prematurely declared her glory days behind her.

All this is why, when she initially announced Haus Labs in partnership with Amazon in 2019, I was a little like, “Oh no Gaga.” Nothing about it seemed correct. The marketing was at odds with the products and the “exclusive to Amazon” label didn’t scream luxury. I dutifully ordered The Few Bits and liked them well enough, but it all appeared a bit Fenty-lite and not very Gaga.

Apparently, she agreed. In 2022, the whole thing was rebranded with a focus on “clean beauty” (look… whatever you’re having yourself) and a complete vibe/product overhaul. Now, in my opinion, it’s a beauty brand worth paying attention to – but which products are worth the hype? As someone who has tried more than a few of them, I will tell you.

Triclone Skin Tech Foundation

This was one of my 2023 beauty favourites and I have to say, it is still the higher-coverage foundation I reach for the most these days. Even over Luminous Silk! Which it is not dissimilar to, but maybe a touch more dewy. I think it’s very adaptable – I love mixing it with an illuminating product to make it more of a skin tint, or going the full whack for a night out. The shade range is expansive and I found it easy to get a very good match online with their shade finder (I’m 110 Light Neutral, for reference). Obviously it would be great to be able to sample this at a counter, but if you’re fairly good at eyeballing your own shade, you should be grand. If you try one thing from Haus Labs, make it this…

Triclone Skin Tech Concealer

…or this. After a rocky start, this featured in my 2024 beauty favourites, and it’s still the only concealer I want to use every day. No concealer is immune to creasing on me, but this doesn’t completely destroy itself over the course of an afternoon, which is a point in its favour. As I mentioned in my 2024 favourites post, it really sticks to the area you want to conceal, making it good for both undereyes and spots. I use shade 11 Light Neutral in this, which corresponds with my foundation shade. Just a heads up, I bought my first Haus Labs products directly from their website, but I’d recommend using Sephora instead lest you get hit by customs.

Powder Sculpt Velvet Bronzer

Bronzer is one category of beauty product I’m not super excited about. I can make a case for allowing myself loads and loads of blushes (different hues! Different textures! Different formulas!) but bronzer is just brown, and I’m not particularly attached to looking tanned. BE THAT AS IT MAY, this is my powder bronzer of choice. It’s not so overly pigmented that you’re in danger of going overboard straight away, and the shade is warming without being orange. I have Light Level 3, but the shades appear to have been renamed, so I have no idea what that would be called now. Maybe Soleil Sand Fair or Bronzed Umber Light? Help me, Gaga.

Color Fuse Glassy Blush Balm Stick

I was so excited for these to come out – literally, haunting the Sephora website excited – and then when the parcel finally arrived, I was like “Oh, okay.” It’s not that they’re bad. They’re definitely lovely dewy blush sticks. They’re just not particularly revolutionary or different to other blush sticks I own (the Pat McGrath ones seem quite similar, for instance). Do I use them? Yes. Would you like them if you’re in the market for a new cream blush? Probably! The shades I have (Glassy Hibiscus and Glassy Lilac) are very nice. But did I absolutely need need need to have them? No.

Color Fuse Blush Powder

The powder blushes, though… they really did something with these. I think it’s really funny that they launched them, realised that they were WAY too big (they contained 11g of product, in comparison to say, a Nars blush, which has about 5g) and relaunched them in smaller packaging. Here is a comparison photo – though I do not agree at all with the person who posted it complaining about the smaller size. Are you regularly going through huge pans of blush? Probably not. The new packaging is nicer, too! But I digress. I really love this blush, and it’s one of the only matte powder formulas I still go for, being firmly on the cream/liquid blush train. Dragon Fruit Daze is THE shade.

PHD Hybrid Lip Glaze

This is such a perfect hybrid (just realised the point of the name) between a gloss and a lip oil, and I love it. I have two shades, Guava (a mauve-y pink) and Fig (an amazing brownish red), and both are in regular rotation. Can I just say, as an aside, part of my reason for going on a no-buy is that I found it quite hard to just buy one shade of a product I was excited about. “Sher you may as well get two!” said my dopamine-starved brain, when I most certainly did not require two shades of anything. Anyway, back to the lip glosses: They feel very comfortable to wear, there’s no stickiness, and your lips look very smooth and juicy. Extremely good.

Bio-Radiant Gel-Powder Highlighter

I saw Charlotte Palermino using the pink shade of this as a blush, so I had to have the pink shade of this to use as a blush. You may be asking “Gel-powder? Who ever heard of a gel-powder?” but somehow, that is what this is. It’s almost creamy to the touch, and looks like a liquid highlighter on the skin (which is my preferred type of highlighter). It’s very beautiful both on its own or as a veil of shimmer over a regular pink blush. Not an essential product by any means, but a nice one. They now have a balm stick version of this that I am not allowed to buy but still very interested in.

Le Monster Lip Crayon

I bought this during the initial Amazon launch, and it’s the only product I can see that survived the rebrand. I didn’t use it much because it was a SCREAMING pink (I’m wearing it here) but I recall liking it well enough as a matte lip formula. I just don’t go for matte lips so much these days, so I have no desire to explore the new shades.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! If you’re interested in more brand breakdowns, I previously did one for Glossier. Who should I turn my attention to next?

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2024 was rough and I placated myself with makeup. Lotsssss of makeup. As a result, my (already full) drawers are groaning with products that I need to actually use. Like, you know it’s bad when you’re embarrassed about how often the post man or the DPD guy is coming to the house. I love you, Fabricio, but we need to see less of each other.

Not only that, but I feel more in tune with what I want from my makeup than ever before – glowy, easy, with some fun shades and a little bit of sparkle – and many of the products I already own fit that brief. The point of a “holy grail” is not to try and find a new holy grail to replace it with every couple of months, despite what Instagram or TikTok is trying to tell me.

So, for 2025, I’ve decided to put some smacht on myself. My trip to New York last month was my final chance to get it out of my system (if you want to know what I bought please ask me in the comments). From now on, I am following these three rules:

1. I can buy replacements for items I already own and love. I’m already thinking about what will happen when my Haus Labs concealer runs out, and I know I won’t want to go too long without it. I’m not including skincare in the no-buy as that’s not really where I have a problem (lol), so for that I’ll continue my current system of replacing stuff when it runs out.

2. I’ll make a note of anything that really tempts me on my phone. If it gets to the end of the month and I’m still thinking about it, then I will consider it… if I truly have nothing else like it. I doubt this will be a possibility, due to the aforementioned very full drawers of makeup.

3. I’ll start a “rotating makeup bag” every month to ensure I’m using and loving everything I own. If a product in rotation isn’t really doing it for me any more, I’ll rehome it or bin it. I’m planning on updating you guys on the goings-on of the rotating makeup bag every couple of months.

Here are some of the products I’ll be including in the makeup bag for March:

• Makeup by Mario Softsculpt Transforming Skin Enhancer: There’s a huge pan in this and I know I can finish it. I debated doing a Project Pan along with the no-buy, but to me, forcing yourself to use the same product over and over kind of sucks the joy out of doing makeup. I need variety! But if I can use up a few things over the course of 2025, I’ll be happy.

• Saie Glowy Super Gel in Starglow: This is also nearing its end and I like it, but I keep forgetting about it! Into the makeup bag with you.

• Lukey Lukey Dream Cheeks Crème Blush in Beret Berry: This is such a cute little brand by Irish makeup artist Luke Nolan. The packaging and formula is so high quality, and the berry shade is a nice everyday colour for me. It has gotten lost amongst all my other blushes but I want to bring it to the fore.

I know the beauty content industry is very focused on the new (first impressions, hauls, PR unboxings), but that’s never been what Vanity Project is about. I haven’t done many straight “reviews” because it seemed so silly to compete with people who get instant access to the latest products. But now I’m thinking that this is exactly why I should be writing regular old reviews. I bought these products myself, I’ve used them for a while, I know how I feel. There’s no one over my shoulder, ready to strike my name off a PR list. So perhaps you’ll be seeing a few more of those around here in the coming months.

I’ve technically already completed a month of my no-buy, though I will say, a Stylevana order I made literal months ago arrived mid-February, so… I still got the dopamine hit of the parcel in the door. Let’s see how we manage in March.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! I am feeling super optimistic right now about this no-buy so let’s hope I can #holdfirm. See you soon for the next one!

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Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel SPF50 and Skin1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50

I spent quite a bit of time rhapsodising about Asian sunscreens in my 2024 favourites post. These were two more I used this year – both are great, I’d happily use them again, and in fact I have a two-pack of the Skin1004 SPF on the way from Stylevana at the moment. I look forward to seeing them in a couple of months (I accidentally also ordered something that takes 30 days to ship, so… it will be a while).

Garnier Ambre Solaire Super UV Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Fluid SPF50

This one gets put out on its own because to me, this is SPF first, hydration second. And that’s okay sometimes! I got it so I could top up my sunscreen on holiday without using my precious K-SPFs willy-nilly. It’s very similar to the La Roche-Posay Anthelios – very thin, kinda messy, with a strong chemical smell. Again, that’s okay sometimes. But I don’t think it’s an enjoyable product to use as your daily SPF. Especially when there are so many great, more moisturising options on the market.

COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence

Yes, I enjoy smearing snail goo on my face. I used this in the place of a hydrating serum and found it incredibly effective. It is weird, texture-wise – kind of tacky and to be honest, slimy, as you would expect snail goo to be – but the radiant, bouncy, hydrated skin you get from it is worth any momentary ick. And this bottle lasted me AGES. I’ve seen it in TK Maxx recently so if you can pick it up there for a little cheaper, do.

COSRX Propolis Synergy Toner and I’m From Rice Toner

God, it really was the Year of Toner for old Val here. I’m also reviewing these under the same banner because I liked them both, and they performed the same function in my routine: Locking in the juiciness. The COSRX toner contains propolis, a substance produced by bees that is purported to have antibacterial properties. The I’m From toner has rice in it (duh), which is supposed to brighten and improve elasticity. Listen, all I know is that they both felt gorgeously rich on my skin despite looking like glorified water, and my face has felt supple and hydrated since I got serious about this toner step. Would repurchase either of them.

Ultraceuticals Ultra Protective Antioxidant Complex

Oh dear, I can’t remember much about using this, which isn’t a great sign, but I know it took the place of my usual Vitamin C serum. The main ingredient here is Silymarin, which I have heard is good for people whose skin does not get on with Vitamin C, but I’m alright with that particular ingredient, so I think I prefer it for any antioxidising. That’s a word I just made up. I received this in a Bag of Shite from a pal, and at €66, I will not be repurchasing.

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

I must have replaced it with this, and I was probably very excited about it, because I’m always on the lookout for affordable Vitamin C products. Unfortunately, this was not the one for me. This pilled like crazy under my moisturiser, to the extent that I was picking little rolls of product out of my eyebrows and hairline. Not cute! The packaging is really good for a cheaper brand – airtight, no way for the product inside to be exposed to the sunlight and turn nasty – but for me, I like the serum to stay on my face. I’ve replaced it with the Naturium Vitamin C Complex, which is cheaper and plays well with my other skincare.

Obagi Medical Retinol 1.0

I’ve reviewed the lesser strengths of this product here before, so I’ll be brief: This is a very effective retinol product for me. They’re not cheap, but if it works for you and you use it, it’s worth it. And I pretty much only buy it when there’s a sale, anyway. The only thing now is I have reached the Highest Level of OTC Retinol, so where do I go from here? Literally no doctor will prescribe me tretinoin (oh Lord have I have tried).

Inkey List 10% Azelaic Acid Serum and Dermatica Clarifying Azelaic Acid 20% Cream

Another two products going under the same umbrella. As I said in my 2024 favourites, azelaic acid has been a key discovery for me. My skin looks more even, the texture has improved, small spots are kept at bay… I just love it. Between these two serums and my prescription Skinoren, I’ve used a lot of it over the last 12 months or so.

Naturium Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%

Naturium is sneakily becoming one of my favourite skincare brands. Surprisingly affordable, interesting formulas, and it just works. I liked the experience of using this cleanser, which might sound weird, but it’s true. It’s just so soft and gentle, but leaves you feeling really clean. I’m not sure if the niacinamide necessarily adds anything to it, but it didn’t hurt. Would very happily repurchase.

CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser

A mainstay of my empties posts. Great shower cleanser! Cheap! Lasts ages! Put it on your body acne! I switched it up this time and replaced it with the niacinamide one, just in case you thought you could ever predict my next move.

Pestle & Mortar Hydrate Lightweight Moisturiser

This is the first Pestle & Mortar product that I haven’t liked – I know it says it’s a lightweight moisturiser, but I wasn’t counting on it being so light. If you have oilier skin, this might sound perfect for you. But where I’m at right now, I want to be cocooned (more on that below). I liked the pump-action packaging that kept me from getting moisturiser under my nails, but that’s probably it.

Sculpted by Aimee CloudCream

I’m always a liiiiittle sceptical of skincare products from makeup-first brands, but this is lovely. CloudCream is such a great name for it, because it feels light yet enveloping (it also makes me think of @bigdirtyfry’s impression of Aidan Gillen. Moooon creeeam). I was cocooned! This was a mini that I bought to try out, and I think I’ll get the full size once I finish my current moisturiser. Bonus points for the full size being refillable, too.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Eye Cream

Another semi-permanent resident of the empties posts. This brought my eyes back from the brink, but I’ve actually retired it in favour of the CeraVe one for now, and guess what? We have survived. I’m relieved that my eyelids have ceased developing eczema at the drop of a hat. For now, anyway.

Palmer’s Coconut Hydrate Hand Cream

Sometimes you just need a hand cream and grab the hand cream that is in front of you in the shop that sells hand cream. This one was fine. I liked the coconut scent. I formed no attachment to it. Thank you for your service, Mr Hand Cream.

Sephora Waterproof Eye Makeup Remover

This I bought in Rome after realising that the cleanser I’d brought was definitely NOT going to remove my eye makeup (Sculpted by Aimee DuoCleanse, nice but eh, gentle). It did the job beautifully, and now I’m actually kind of converted to a separate eye makeup remover. You mean to tell me I was standing there painstakingly wiping mascara from my eyelashes when I could have done it in two seconds flat with this little yoke? The time I have wasted!!

Rare Beauty Perfect Strokes Universal Volumising Mascara

Every time I buy a more expensive mascara I remember why I usually don’t. Luckily this was a mini, so I don’t feel too bad, but it did nothing a L’Oreal one couldn’t do better. I am learning my lesson, but slowly.

Sculpted by Aimee Velvet Veil Translucent Powder

This was on its last legs but then it got the slightest dint in the drawer and everything came crashing down. I liked this! It did a perfectly good job of mattifying and setting my makeup. The mini size is very handy for my handbag, and though I know some would prefer it had a powder puff or something included, I don’t mind carrying a little brush around. I’m not running to repurchase it, but if I needed a powder in a pinch, this would do just fine.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! I’m off to New York this week, after which I will be implementing a strict beauty no-buy. More on that in my next post. See you soon!

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I won’t remember 2024 too fondly. It took a lot from me, from the people I love. I started this newsletter because talking about makeup and skincare brought me joy during Covid lockdowns, but as you can probably tell by my output, it wasn’t providing the same relief this year. Not that this stopped me trying. Oh how I shopped! Mindlessly and constantly. So that’s why I’ve somehow ended up with quite a long list of favourites, even while I’ve found it quite hard to actually enjoy things. Make it make sense!

I hope 2025 is better for us all. I have some ideas for this newsletter, little ways to try and get back into it again. But for now, let us explore my standout products from the last year.

Lisa Eldridge Seamless Skin Enhancing Tint

There are certain words and phrases that are like a dog whistle to me when it comes to beauty, and this year, “skin tint” was one of them. My skin was doing better and I was happy to let coverage take a back seat. Three drops of this (Lisa says two, but three is the ideal amount for me) gives me a nice, even base that looks good all day. It’s extremely simple to apply with your fingers, and the shade range and matching is amazing – I chose T6, which is spot on.

This gives a skinlike, satin finish, whereas the Sculpted by Aimee Hydratint, my other favourite tint, is definitely more dewy, like freshly-applied skincare. I used Hydratint a lot in the summer mixed with some bronzing drops, and the Seamless Skin Tint for office days and general schlepping around town. Both have a place in my makeup bag, I feel.

Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Concealer

In my best of 2023 post, I said this concealer was a “cakey mess.” This year, it’s my favourite. What I didn’t understand was that ALL concealers were cakey messes on me at that time because my eyes were dry as hell. I started using the Aldi version of the Bobbi Brown Vitamin-Enriched Eye Base on top of my eye cream before I did my makeup, which seems like a lot of eye cream, but all of a sudden, I was having no problems with any concealer. And now, I no longer need to double up, because my eyes are hydrated! I know people say eye creams are a swizz but this is my case in favour of them.

But back to the concealer: What I like about this is that it sticks in the place you put it. You know how you start blending some concealers and end up with it halfway down your face? This stays put, so you’re only concealing what you want to conceal and not adding unnecessary coverage. This “stickiness” means it works as well for spots as it does under the eyes. It creases a little with wear, but all concealers do that on me regardless of if they’re set or not, so I just pat it out and go on my way. I have other concealers but I barely use them because I’m always reaching for this one. A sure repurchase.

Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick in Garconne

It’s SO annoying that this is so good, because Westman Atelier is so bloody expensive. But look, it’s a luxury brand, and you get a luxury experience. The packaging is beautiful and weighty, with a gorgeous magnetic click. I only wish they did refills, as it seems really easy to pop the product part out. Maybe that’s something they’re working on. The blush itself is super creamy and blendable, natural yet noticeable. This shade is kind of a shapeshifter – sometimes it looks mauve, other times it looks reddy-brown. But that just means it works with most of my eye and lip products. I really want the contour stick now, but I’m trying this new thing where I actually finish a product before I buy another one (more on that in a future post).

Huda Beauty Blush Filter in Strawberry Cream

This is the diametric opposite of the Westman Atelier blush in terms of packaging and shade, but I loved both equally this year. This liquid blush claims to give a soft-focus, blurred finish, which I was sceptical about, but it is remarkably soft and yep, filtered-looking on the cheeks. This shade is so fun – a perky pink that lasts all day long, but isn’t so pigmented that you’re terrified to put more than a dot of it on your face. I’m not allowed any more shades of it because I have enough blush, but you should get the Black Cherry one and tell me what it’s like!

Danessa Myricks Dewy Lip & Cheek Balm Palette in Dew It Undercover

At some point this year I decided I needed an all-in-one palette for travel (I didn’t but here we are) and all it took was one gorgeous gorgeous girl saying this was great for me to buy it. And you know what, it IS great. The bronzier shades are perfect for me and the blush/lip shades – a mauve and a deep berry – fit right in with the colour story I was gravitating towards for all of 2024. The formula is buildable and actually works across lips, cheeks, and even eyes, so it has been quite handy for travel in the end. And while it says “dewy”, it isn’t sticky, so you don’t have to worry about your hair getting stuck to your face. Danessa Myricks, the woman that you are.

Lisa Eldridge Sculpt and Shade Lip Pencil in 2C

I reviewed this product in another post so I won’t go into a huge amount of detail here, but: This is my favourite lip liner probably ever. I’m powering through it in a way that is quite concerning, since it’s very often sold out. It’s like, excuse me, this is MY perfect lip liner shade? I don’t know what the rest of you want with it. Leave some for me.

Rimmel Lasting Finish Lip Liner in Cappuccino

I tried to like Make Up For Ever Endless Cacao. I really tried. But it was so grey on me that I just looked dirty. I assumed that cool-toned lip liner was just not for me, but then I returned to this old chestnut. It’s slightly more mauve, so it adds definition without making me look like I fell into the coal bunker. People go mad when cool-toned liners aren’t essentially soot, but I’m okay with it! I’m terrified of MAC Stone, but I love it for the rest of you.

Elf Glow Reviver Lip Oil in Jam Session

This thing is sick of being in my handbag, I know it is. There are so many lip oils on the market, and this one isn’t wildly different from any of them, but it feels to me like it’s actually adding some hydration along with the gloss. You’re not going to be blown away by the depth of the tint – this offers a very sheer wash of colour, and some of the lighter shades are basically clear – but it’s a nice one to throw on top of a corresponding lip liner.

Violette_FR Bisou Balms in Amour Fou and Rose Latte

Matte liquid lipsticks made their return in 2023, and in 2024 that trend morphed into a soft matte, just-kissed lip. Violette’s Bisou Balms are probably the best example of this. They really do feel like a matte balm, with a buildable colour that gives a romantic, blurred look. Their closest relative in the western market is probably Glossier’s Generation G, which I find a bit harder to apply and build up. I like the Bisou Balms for everyday makeup looks – Amour Fou is an easy-to-wear red, while Rose Latte is the perfect companion for something like Rimmel Cappuccino.

About-face Matte Fluid Eye Paint

I’ve also mentioned this product before, so I’ll just say that I spent 50% of the year wearing this on my eyes and the other 50% wearing the Vieve Eye Wands. My favourite is an extremely light brown, almost nothing shade called Capulets, but I recently bought a deeper brown (Weightless) which I adore just as much. So good, so easy.

Judydoll Slim Liquid Eyeliner in Grey Brown

I have been on a Brown Liquid Eyeliner Journey this year (how exciting) and this K-beauty product was a very good find. It has the thinnest little brush I’ve ever seen, making it so easy to achieve neat baby wings. The wear time is fairly good, and the grey-brown shade works with cool-toned eye looks. You have to wait a while for products to arrive from the K-beauty shopping sites, but it’s so often worth it.

Clio Kill Lash Superproof Mascara in 02 Volume Curling

Another K-beauty fave. This mascara has the thinnest little wand I’ve ever seen (I’m sensing a pattern here) which applies the product very precisely, giving a fluttery, separated effect. And when they say “superproof”, they mean it. You absolutely need eye makeup remover to remove this – it will not budge for an oil or balm cleanser. But that’s a small price to pay for basically bulletproof lashes.

Danessa Myricks Lightwork Volume VI Freedom Palette

This palette is still new to me (I bought it during the Black Friday sales) but it’s so exciting that I had to include it in my favourites. I said before that I’m no longer really bothered to Do A Look with eyeshadow… but this makes me want to. And in fact I have, several times. The pinks and the purples and the golds and the shades that shift from one colour to another depending on the light! It’s so beautiful. The palette itself is also very innovative – it’s split into three magnetised mini-palettes, which you can pop out and stack. The shades inside can also be rearranged, so you can bring your favourite colours in one little palette. The silver part of the lid has a mirror on the other side, and is magnetised so it can act as a lid for your mini-palette stack. I don’t know, I just love that. 2025 is going to be the year of me doing colourful, sparkly eyeshadow again, I can feel it.

Azelaic acid

Lol at this favourite product just being an ingredient. But it’s true! Azelaic acid was probably my best skincare discovery of the year. I was prescribed Skinoren 20% at the start of the year, which didn’t help with my cystic acne, but made the rest of my face look fabulous – evening the tone, bringing down redness, and improving the texture. I started alternating it with my retinol so I could get the benefits of both at the same time, and I think my skin is the better for it.

I used The Inkey List Azelaic Acid 10% after the Skinoren, but azelaic acid is kind of like retinol in that your skin builds up a tolerance to it, so the lower percentage wasn’t really doing much for me. I found the Dermatica 20% Azelaic Acid via the Caroline Hirons Facebook group, and that’s been doing the job ever since. As always, I’d like to state that this active ingredient works for me but it might not be for you, so if you do try it, introduce it slowly and carefully.

Korean SPFs

The Stylevanas and YesStyles of the world loved to see me coming in 2024 (as did any beauty influencer with a referral discount code, probably). A parade of Korean SPF products passed through my bathroom cabinet, including the Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics, the SKIN1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sunscreen, and the Isntree Watery Sun Gel. I can’t say I preferred any one over the others, though the Beauty of Joseon one is probably the most moisturising of the three, so more suitable for the winter months. They’re all available from Boots now, which cuts down on delivery times, but most of them are SO much cheaper from Stylevana/YesStyle (we’re talking tenner savings here people, TENNERS) that I’ll probably stick to ordering from there.

Hydrating toners

Maybe entire product categories don’t count as “favourites” but I can’t pick just one. They’ve all been good! A hydrating toner is not a necessary step, but I like it, so I do it. I started the year with the Laneige Cream Skin, moved on to the COSRX Propolis Synergy Toner, and am currently using the Byoma Hydrating Milky Toner. They all do more or less the same thing, which is to provide a layer of hydration for my serum to suck up and lock into my skin. At least I hope it’s doing that. My skin feels soft and hasn’t been very dry this winter, so I’m taking it as a yes.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! I have an empties post on the way, so I’ll be back sooner this time, I promise. A very happy new year to you!

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And not to get all #girlboss or whatever but each of my current faves was founded by women. Come on da gals etc. 

Haus Labs

One day as I applied my Haus Labs foundation, Haus Labs concealer, Haus Labs bronzer and blush, and Haus Labs lip gloss, I had to admit to myself that Haus Labs has become my favourite brand. I am a Little Monster, admittedly, but my standards are high when it comes to beauty products, and Haus Labs has passed the test with flying colours. 

The base products in particular are incredible – I believe last year I said that I didn’t like the concealer, but as it turns out, my eyes were just dying for a bit of hydration. Once I sorted that out, I basically stopped using anything else. I may write a post exploring the brand a little deeper in the future, but for now let me say: Lady Gaga!

Lisa Eldridge

Like, of course. I am automatically interested in anything Lisa Eldridge puts her big beautiful mind to. The lipsticks remain the cornerstone of her brand, and I don’t think anyone else is doing it like she does when it comes to formula and colour. I was a little disappointed at the shades of her matte liquid eyeshadows (so warm?), but I will forgive her because the skin tint is SUPERIOR. It has been a constant for me since it launched earlier this year – great-looking skin in a bottle. I am looking respectfully at the new lipstick formula, which will be out by the time I publish this newsletter. Perhaps I will ask Santy for it.

Violette_FR

I think this brand is Lisa Eldridge’s cooler baby sister – the shades are a touch more daring, the formulas a little more effortless and chic, the packaging less luxe but still cute. They even have a similar logo. I have a few shades of the Yeux Paint and love them all, but Scarabee D’Or and Reve de Dahlia are probably my favourites (the latter is incredible on green eyes). The Bisou Balms are my lip product of the moment, with a soft matte finish that has me eschewing balmy lipsticks and glosses for the first time in ages. Whenever Violette is teasing a new product or shade with beautiful imagery and swatches and moodboards, please know that I am listening. 

Glossier

I know. I feel like the early days of this newsletter was just me slagging off Glossier, but I’ve come around again. Maybe because the way I wear makeup has changed? I used to want my products to do the most, but now I love the gentle usefulness of Cloud Paint, Ultralip, Generation G, and the Stretch Foundation. And the new releases just keep grabbing me! I have no interest in You but SO much interest in You Reve and You Doux, to the extent that I wish I had smell-o-vision. I’m mad at them for only releasing the Storm Ultralip as part of a set. Just listen to me! We are SO back.

Here are a few that I have my eye on but need to evaluate further:

• Danessa Myricks: I am a fan of Danessa and all she does but I haven’t bumped this brand up to “favourite” because her signature products (glitters! Neon eye paints! Iridescent eyeshadow!) are just not things I use regularly any more. Would I love one of her giant sparkly eye palettes? Yes. Would it be absolutely wasted on me? Yeah, sadly. But I have a multi-use palette from her that is my favourite thing ever, so maybe I should be exploring her more “everyday” products.

• Vieve: Vieve is a brand for gals who want to put that makeup ON, but in a sexy 90s supermodel way, as opposed to a 2015 YouTube way. I’ve loved everything I’ve tried, would love to sample the new skin tint and the liquid blushes but will wait until I’ve made my way through some of my current stock.

• KJH Brand: I love seeing Katie Jane Hughes off on tour with Dua Lipa. I also love seeing her brand spread its wings a little more.I will admit, the initial launch – a highlighting kit that you couldn’t buy separately at the time – did not wow me, but the new matte blush/lip sticks… yeah. I got one. I Addresspal-ed it because I just needed to know. And once I do, you’ll know too.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! I’m trying not to overthink my posts right now and just write what I feel like, so… hopefully that’s alright. See you soon for the next one!

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But that was seven (scream) years ago, and now I am boring. Even when I “go out”, I am boring. Pre-pandemic me would scream if she knew that now, my favourite product categories are skin (forever questing for the perfect glowy base) and blush. I still go for the occasional bold lip or iridescent eye, but if you see me on the street on a normal day, I will be wearing at least one but most likely all of these boring products.

Kiko Milano Super Colour Waterproof Eyeliner in 08 Bronze

I can’t pinpoint exactly when I started using this every time I did my makeup – it just wormed its way in, and now I don’t feel complete without a bit of winged liner. It’s like I’m 14 again! Except this time around, I’m aiming for super thin, brown flicks, instead of giant black triangles that occupy half my lid. I bought this on our gals’ holiday in Lanzarote last year and while it is simply a slightly metallic brown liquid eyeliner, it is very longwearing. Yesterday, for example, I did my makeup at 7.30am and the eyeliner was still perfect when I got home from work at 7.30pm. What more could you want? And Kiko is opening a store on Henry Street, which means I won’t have to go to Lanzarote again to repurchase it (we are going to Tenerife this year anyways). 

About-face Matte Fluid Eye Paint in Capulets

This is barely a colour. Some people would say it was an eyeshadow base rather than an eyeshadow itself. But here I am slapping it on regardless. This is another long-wearing product, from a brand I don’t really hear people talking about over here but is probably one of the most intriguing celebrity brands around (About-face was founded by the singer Halsey). The Matte Fluid Eye Paints come in all sorts of amazing colours – I have another one in a really unique greenish-grey, and I really want this muted lavender shade – but of course my favourite is this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it brown. Paint it on, blend it out, add the brown eyeliner, off I go.

Vieve Eye Wand in Hazelnut

I’ve written about this before, but it remains a constant in my makeup bag. It’s a neutral brown. It’s matte. I can scribble it on with ease. I use it so often but it seems to be never-ending, so I would say for €26-€29 (it’s cheaper on Cult Beauty for some reason), it’s a good investment. So many other brands do a version of this eyeshadow stick, but this is the one I have, and I treasure it.

Lisa Eldridge Sculpt and Shade Lip Pencil in 2C

I hate to call a Lisa Eldridge product boring, but the shade is pretty much the same mauve-pink colour of my lips, so I think my use of it qualifies as dull. I LOVE IT. Like, amazingly, the most flattering lip colour on me is just a more unified version of my own. I haven’t stopped using it since I got it. The old me who used to wear a bold lip colour every day is disgusted. I pair it with the Lisa Eldridge lipstick in Painterly, this wildly expensive Chanel lipstick in Burnished Rosewood that I bought during a March fugue state, Glossier Ultralip in Pony… It just became an instant staple. Lisa Eldridge discontinued a few of her shades recently – including Velvet Morning, the best orange red ever and I actually can’t even talk about it Lisa how could you – but I hope this sticks around.

Here is everything in extremely boring action! I’ve got the About-face shadow on with the eye and lip liners, and elsewhere on the face I have the Lisa Eldridge skin tint, the Rimmel Multitasker glow booster, Fwee Pudding Pot blush in Hurt, and the Haus Labs lip gloss in Guava. I guess this is my makeup uniform of sorts. The children (me) yearn for the mines (school pinafores).

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! I hope reading about boring products was not actually boring, and that you all had a very nice summer. I’m not really ready for the season to change. I felt cold today for the first time in months and I didn’t like it. Anyway. See you next time!

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I have somehow amassed a post-worthy amount of empties, so let’s just pretend I’ve been a faithful and frequent newsletter editrix and get into that.

Sculpted by Aimee Sun Mist SPF 50

This isn’t totally empty, but it was thrown into a drawer at the end of last summer and is probably well out of date (SPF is the one thing I do care about use-by dates with). I loved this! These mists aren’t a replacement for regular SPF, but ideal for reapplication over makeup, on hands, back of the neck, etc. It’s instantly dry to the touch and doesn’t disturb anything you might have on your face. My one quibble was that the bottle was a little chunky for a Small Handbag Girl like myself, but they have redone the packaging since I bought it, so that issue may be addressed. I replaced it with the Garnier Over Make-Up Mist, simply because it was on offer in Boots, but I’d buy the Sculpted one again.

Garnier Vitamin C Daily UV Invisible SPF 50+

Speaking of Garnier SPF products, this is their new SPF moisturiser that they have been aggressively promoting to me on Instagram and TikTok. I got the non-tinted version, and it is… okay. I mentioned in a previous post that I prefer my K-beauty sunscreens, but it certainly isn’t a bad product. The pros: It really is invisible! And easy to rub in. It’s got an almost matte finish, which might suit those with oilier skin types. The cons: I find the level of fragrance in it to be completely unnecessary – I’m not against fragrance in products, but this is a) not a nice one and b) so, so heavy, at least in my opinion. It’s also not as hydrating as other SPF moisturisers I’ve tried. All in all, not a repurchase for me.

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+

My beloved. I won’t go into too much detail on this again, only to say that I went from the Garnier one to this and the difference was stark. The BoJ sunscreen is definitely more of a moisturising product, and leaves the most gorgeous dewy glow, which is something I seek out. And the brand is now available in Boots! You love to see it.

Sol de Janeiro Bom Dia Bright Clarifying AHA BHA Body Wash

I let the Sol de Janeiro train pass me by, because I barely moisturise my body enough to spend almost €50 on body cream, but I was looking for a body wash with actives in it, and this one caught my eye. It’s got salicylic acid and fruit exfoliants and all sorts in it to do away with rough skin and body acne, and like all SdJ products, smells incredible. THIS is where I want my scents, brands! Not my sunscreen. It doesn’t feel crazily priced at €24, considering it lasted me months and months. I cannot tell you if it actually made a difference to my body acne (it has cleared up but that may be for other reasons, detailed below), but it made for a very nice shower experience. 

Aldi Lacura Almond Gentle Shower Oil

Not every Aldi beauty dupe falls into my basket, but when they do… it’s a mixed bag. I’ve tried some great Aldi dupes (their versions of the Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Base and Eye Primer are good!) but this isn’t among them. I haven’t used the L’Occitane shower oil this is based on, but I have smelled it, and it smells a lot nicer than this fake, cloying scent. Other than that, it’s a bog standard body wash. What it has done is make me want to buy the real thing, which is kind of the opposite of what a dupe should do.

Palmer’s Coconut Oil Formula Coconut Hydrate Body Oil

I know I said I don’t moisturise my body enough, but the only way I will bother to do it is if it’s directly after a shower with something like this. It goes straight on damp skin, sucks up all the moisture, and leaves you with gleaming, soft limbs. And it only takes a minute or two to apply, much less of a slog than massaging in a cream for four to five hours (I may be exaggerating but that’s what it FEELS like). I’ve replaced it with the Aveeno Skin Relief Body Oil Spray which, other than smelling like a Victoria’s Secret, does an equally good job at moisturising my skin. 

Hair by Sam McKnight Cool Girl Texture Mist

Like the Sculpted SPF mist, this has been in the back of a drawer just about empty for yonks. You’d swear I didn’t actually like it, but I do! It’s described as being “barely there” and I find that to be true – some texture sprays can feel almost crunchy, but this adds a bit of grit without the sensation of having tons of product in your hair. It also smells very sophisticated and, yes, gives me Cool Girl hair (though I have the kind of hair texture – thick, kinda wavy – that works well with sprays like this one). I would buy it again.

Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm

The way I was rationing out the products I got in Seoul… but all good things have to come to an end. I’ve used this a few times before, and was glad to see that it’s still a lovely balm cleanser. Gets the makeup off, skin feels clean, happy days. I like the sorbet-y texture of it. This is the exfoliating version, and I don’t think it did much of that, but I didn’t really need it to.

Skinoren Azelaic Acid 15% Gel (prescription only)

Another fallen soldier in my years-long fight against adult acne! Ah no. I think azelaic acid is a great ingredient and I’ve incorporated it into my skincare routine, even though it was not the cure I sought for my hormonal, cystic spots. Annoyingly, from the top lip upwards my skin looked fantastic, because azelaic acid fights redness, hyperpigmentation, and milder acne, but my chin and jaw were still a mess. Clearly, whatever is causing it is underneath the hood, so topical treatments can only do so much. I’m now on my third month of taking spironolactone, which has worked, and my skin looks really, really good. I want to write a full post on my adult acne ~*journey*~ when I’m out of the spiro “probation period,” but things are looking up, acne-wise.

La Roche-Posay Toleraine Dermallergo Eye Cream

This has featured countless times on this newsletter so I’ll be brief: Great for sensitive eyes, has gotten me out of a few painful, reactive eye situations, and I’ll keep using it to avoid that happening again.

Charlotte Tilbury Magic Water Cream

OK, so. A good while ago, some pals who remain in the magazine industry gave me a very generous Bag of Shite (what we used to call the piles of PR products we’d get, lol sorry brands). In that Bag of Shite lay this product – a product that costs ninety-five entire euro, that I would and will never buy for myself because I don’t believe in €95 moisturiser. BUT. God is it nice. I thought it would feel like all the other water-gel-cream moisturisers I’ve tried, but it’s somehow richer, without being at all heavy. I looked dewy and hydrated and I liked it a lot. I will probably never see it again, but I will forever think of it fondly, like a summer fling or a Mars Delight. 

Laneige Water Sleeping Mask

This is what I was thinking that Charlotte Tilbury cream would be like; a lightweight, fresh-feeling gel. The Laneige mask is a very nice, hydrating night cream, at a more competitive price. It has been mentioned plenty on here, though I won’t be repurchasing it at the moment – not for any negative reasons, just because I am slutty with moisturisers.

Benefit 24-Hour Brow Setter

No matter what I do, my brow hairs will march to the beat of their own drum. I’ve tried soap brows and any number of brow gels, but my eyebrows are just a bit crap and sparse-yet-thick and very little can change that. Even so, I liked this, a clear brow gel that could hold them for longer than most of the others. I definitely did not get 24-hour hold (I never tested it, to be fair) and I couldn’t achieve the stuck-down “laminated” effect some people are able to get with this, but I could certainly groom them and stay groomed for an appropriate amount of time, with no white crumbly bits (cough Refy). I won’t be rebuying yet, as I have a Maybelline one I want to use, but I will consider it.

NYX Thick It, Stick It Brow Mascara in Brunette

This, by contrast, is a fibre brow gel, designed to tint and thicken your eyebrows. I found this great for a quick brow on days when I couldn’t face the whole pencilling in malarkey, though I think the wand is way too big to be totally effective. I am begging cosmetics companies to shrink their brow wands by about 50%, so that I’m not smearing the product all over my skin while trying to catch the hair. I’m turning more towards clear gels at the moment for less of a heavy brow (not that I can do much about my jet black brow hairs), but if you’re in the market for a tinted one, this is good and affordable.

Charlotte Tilbury Hyaluronic Happikiss in Crystal Happikiss

Whenever I finish any lip product, it is like I have climbed Everest. This was a translucent pink shade I was using more or less as lip balm, but it still counts. I liked this range well enough in the past, though on reflection, I have balmy lipsticks I prefer – these can be quite thick and sticky, and the other shades are more pigmented than I think is required of them. Plus, the twist-up packaging is a recipe for disaster. I don’t think the formula is particularly hydrating either, and now that there are so many lip balms on the market (tinted or otherwise), why wouldn’t you go for one of those instead? I think it’s a case of them being interesting when they launched, but not so much now that the market has changed. Sure Chazza has probably forgotten they even exist, what with her putting out about seven million products a month.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! And apologies again for my less-than-stellar output. I think I needed to write this to get over the hump… so we’ll see how things go now. Chat to ye soon (hopefully)!

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I would be a fan of a multi-use glowy product, myself. While I haven’t tried Flawless Filter’s most famous dupe, the Elf Halo Glow, I have tried quite a few others. I will review and rank them for you, as I feel it is my duty to do so.

Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter, €50

I have written about this so many times. You know what it is, I know what it is. I still use this in so many different ways – mixed into foundation, applied before foundation, dotted on after makeup as a highlighter (especially at the outer corners of my eyes, because of this Olsen twin photo). It’s an incredibly versatile product, and especially great for a more full-glam moment.

It’s quite metallic, and if you apply it all over your face it can look a bit wild, but I find it’s very effective when kept to the cheekbones, forehead, and nose (but not chin for me personally as I don’t wish to highlight my spots). It will probably always be in my makeup bag. However: As you can see above, the packaging gets absolutely wrecked after like five minutes, leaving red and gold flakes all over your face and makeup bag. Even when you think it’s finished shedding, more appear. Please fix this, Charlotte.

Saie Glowy Super Gel in Starglow, €24.80

I was #kindlygifted a mini version of this (lol at me using influencer speak when it was my friend who did the #gifting) and since I love the Saie Dew Blushes so bloody much, I figured this would be right up my alley. And duh, it is. This feels more like skincare than the Flawless Filter, so I wouldn’t say it is a dupe, but they fall into a similar category. It reminds me a little of the Glow Recipe Niacinamide Dew Drops, but shimmery (the criteria for this ranking was that the product has to have some sort of shimmer in it, or we’d be here all day). So a very fresh, dewy finish that isn’t ever going to be “too much.” I like this as a daytime glow-provider, and find myself using it most often with the Glossier foundation. It won’t give the seen-from-space glow of the Flawless Filter, but it’s a sheeny, moisturised base for the rest of your makeup.

Rimmel Multi-Tasker Better Than Filters, €17.99

Rimmel weren’t even trying here, were they? They want you to know what this was inspired by. Fortunately for them, they have created something that can actually stand apart from the product they’re referencing. I was influenced to try this by an Aussie TikToker who is forever on my FYP (yet I cannot find her now to credit her of COURSE). She used it almost like a skin tint, and I was interested to see if it would work like that for me. 

While this looks very similar to Flawless Filter, on application, I find them to be quite different. The Rimmel product has a thinner consistency, and a more subtle sheen. I wouldn’t use Flawless Filter all over my face for fear of looking like the Tin Man, but this… yes. It’s definitely glowy, but it’s more soft-focus, and certainly not metallic. For that reason, I think it works really well paired with just concealer or a lighter base, like the Lisa Eldridge Enhancing Skin Tint. Those two products = my dream summer skin at the moment. Think of it as FF’s less hyper-glam (but still gorge) little sister. 

L’Oreal Lumi Glotion, €16.99

If, like me, you have been watching American YouTubers for about half your life, you will know that this came out in the US years ago. In fact, this may predate Flawless Filter. I can only imagine they’re kicking themselves for not launching it worldwide until now, seeing as it’s quite late to the party. 

This was very recently available for €12.99 with the Boots Advantage card, so of course I picked it up. Out of the four products mentioned here, this one gets me the closest to “glass skin”. The shimmer is barely visible, leaving a glossy, almost reflective glow. It’s intense, but not metallic, just b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l. Elle Fanning wore this at the Met Gala, and you can see how her skin gleams without looking glittery. Do I hate the word “glotion”? Yes. Am I a fan of the product? Also yes.

Now, let me release my official ranking…

4. Saie – A lighter option for more natural days, but not my first choice.
3. L’Oreal – New to me, but the finish is just so gorgeous that I predict I will be reaching for it a lot.
2. Charlotte Tilbury – I still love this, use it all the time, adore it as a highlighter, but…
1. Rimmel – I know! It just suits what I want from an all-over base more. Long may it reign.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project! I’d like to do something like this again with different makeup categories, so let me know what you want to see next. Bye for now!

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Ouai Thick Hair Shampoo and Conditioner

I don’t usually review shampoos because I find it really hard to say for certain that something works or not, but since this is a buzzy celeb-adjacent brand (Ouai is owned by Kardashian hairstylist Jen Atkin) I feel compelled to comment on it. Obviously, I was drawn in by the fact that these products are designed for thick hair – mine is thick and abundant, which sounds good and is for the most part, but things can get unmanageable fairly quickly. I got them during a Space NK sale, but ordinarily they’d be €30 each, which is more than I’d usually spend on shampoo and conditioner.

This set claims to detangle, fight frizz, and moisturise, and I found all this to be true. The scent is also undeniably gorgeous and the bottles look chic in the shower (lol). But it didn’t completely transform my hair, which I think is what would be the requirement for me to start buying it regularly at full price. I don’t know, guys. I’m just not sure any shampoo can completely transform my hair. I guess not giving me dandruff (cough, Kristen Ess) is the best I can ask for. Much like mascara and brow products, I am a cheap shampoo girl at heart.

CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser

This has been mentioned in previous empties posts so, TLDR: It’s a good cleanser. I like it. I would probably buy it again but I rarely commit to a cleanser. (The Naturium “cleansing gelee” I’m currently using is maybe an exception to this rule. I will discuss that in more detail at a later date.) 

Dr G Green Deep Pore Clear Foam

I bought this in Seoul with not a clue of what’s in it, what it could do, or if it was in any way suitable for my skin type. I entered into a sort of trance in the Olive Young store and this is what happened. Luckily, it was actually a winner. Foaming cleansers are often accused of being stripping, but this was so creamy and dare I say hydrating? I could feel little beads in it, which I now have learned are “wheat sprout capsules” that burst to help to clear sebum from pores. I’m not sure how deep a regular face wash can go, but it cleansed my skin without drying the hell out of it, so I’ll take that.

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF 50

You all were right! This is a really great, very moisturising SPF. It’s easy to rub in, leaves a beautiful dewy finish, and works well under makeup – everything I could want from an SPF. I’m never 100% sure about buying K-beauty products from Amazon (I’ve seen too much discussion of fakes) so I recently reordered it from YesStyle, which is a more trustworthy source of Asian beauty products. I wish it came in a bigger tube. The 50ml of product is gone in what seems like an instant.

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel SPF 50

I’ve seen skincare guru Charlotte Palermino (whomst I absolutely should have put on this list but forgot, sorry Charlotte! You don’t know who I am but sorry!!!) mentioning this Korean SPF on numerous occasions, so I had to give it a try. It isn’t as creamy and moisturising as the Beauty of Joseon one, but that’s not a bad thing – I think I’ll prefer it in summer when my skin is less dry. Like the BoJ one, I flew through it, which is unfortunately a consequence of applying enough sunscreen (two finger lengths is the general recommendation). I also repurchased this one in my YesStyle order, so I expect to be fully stocked with SPF until at least September. As I was waiting for that to arrive, I got the new Garnier one to fill the gap, and it just highlights how much more sophisticated Asian sunscreens are – while it isn’t the worst, it’s harder to apply, less moisturising, and packed with unnecessary fragrance. I have truly been spoiled.

Byoma Moisturising Gel-Cream

Byoma is one of a selection of brands that have been the subject of a moral panic around preteen girls and skincare. I don’t have a horse in this race (I don’t think they need active ingredients, but let them moisturise themselves?), but I have seen more than a few mothers by the Byoma stand in Boots, listening as their 12-year-old daughters explain why it is absolutely essential for them to have a brightly-packaged facial spritz. I don’t think I understood anything about skincare except Johnson’s Baby Lotion and makeup wipes until I was like, 16, so… godspeed to you all.

All that being said, this is a nice, basic moisturiser in the vein of The Inkey List Omega Water Cream. I’d use it again, and I’d like to try more from this brand, but this product didn’t have any standout qualities. One thing I dislike about the packaging, as cute as it is, is that you can’t see what’s left. I don’t like being surprised at running out. Give me time to prepare!

The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum

Ah yes, the bright pink serum you’ve probably seen all over TikTok. I actually still don’t know why it’s pink. I’ve looked at the ingredients list – which is full of soothing/hydrating ingredients like centella, ceramides, and niacinamide – and I can’t locate the pinkening thing. (Editing Valerie did the research she probably should have done in the first place and discovered it’s down to the Vitamin B12 they use in it.) Anyway, this was fine – I didn’t love it, probably wouldn’t repurchase it, but it was decently hydrating.

Rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid

I did a more thorough review of this here, but to be brief: I liked it! It was a nice serum. I don’t think it’s more or less “glazing” than any other skincare product. I said I would consider repurchasing it in my initial review, but I’ve changed my mind. There are plenty of similar serums (including the one below) that are cheaper and more easily available. Another packaging quibble: Once the product gets to a certain level, the pump doesn’t work, and you have to insert your finger and scrabble around like a little rat to get at the rest of the serum. And there was loads left, so it just doesn’t seem like the greatest design.

Note: I checked and the price has gone up by €4 since I bought it, making it now closer to €40 for a basic enough serum. Very cheeky, Hailey. 

Aveeno Calm+Restore Triple Oat Serum

LOL at me having not one but THREE “barrier repair” serums in this post, can you tell it was winter/I have been putting my skin through it? I think this was my favourite of the three. I was prescribed azelaic acid for my acne (again, more detail on that soon) and this felt like a nice, soothing treat to apply after. My skin can be a little sensitive, so anything designed to calm is very welcome. I would repurchase this, and am also interested in trying some other stuff from this range – maybe the cleanser? It’s all so affordable, too! Why not, like.

Image Skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Serum

Not a barrier repair serum but a Vitamin C! I used this one from Image a few years back, and decided to try it again when I was casting about for an antioxidant serum. I’ve never really landed on one I want to repurchase over and over – Skinceuticals and Pestle & Mortar are great but pricey, and I can’t seem to land on a more budget-friendly one I really enjoy. 

This is obviously not in the budget category, but I got a discount on the South William Street Clinic online shop, so I went for it. I can’t attest to it being “intensely brightening” (I don’t really know what that would look like and maybe I don’t want to know), but it is a lovely serum that offers a little glow on application. It’s got a sweet, distinctive fragrance, which won’t be for everyone, but I actually like it and feel it adds to the experience, in a way? Not an immediate repurchase, though I’ll keep an eye out for any #dealz.

Laneige Cream Skin Cerapeptide Toner and Moisturiser

This isn’t technically an empty, as I will soon explain… but I feel qualified to review it as such, all the same. I got this product in the Laneige store in Seoul – much like the Dr G cleanser, I went into a fugue state and came out with this, knowing very little about its intended purpose. In my defence, the name at the time was “Cream Skin Cerapeptide Refiner.” The new title is much clearer, and bang on the money – the product is watery like a toner, yet almost as hydrating as a moisturiser. I say “almost” because for me, a regular moisturiser is still a must. But it’s got peptides, ceramides, glycerin, squalane, hyaluronic acid… basically all the big names in hydration.

I was a bit lost on how to introduce it into my routine, until I decided to decant it into a spray bottle. Easier and faster than patting it in with my paws! Valerie, you are a genius. It’s been wonderful over the winter months as an extra layer before my serums and moisturisers, or applied straight out of the shower to stop me turning into a husk. Would absolutely repurchase.

Soap and Glory Hand Food

I am always surprised by the fact that my hands get really dry in winter. Every year. You’d think I would prepare. I liberated this half-used Soap and Glory hand cream from the back of the press only when I started to look like I had scales. It did the job and I like the sherbet-y scent, but I think I needed something a little more heavy-duty. I replaced it with the Palmer’s Cocoa Butter hand cream, which I find to be much more cocooning.

NYX Lift & Snatch Brow Tint Pen in Espresso

Bollocks to you Sabrina Carpenter because every time I read the name of the product I’m like, “Das dat me espressoooo.” Anyway. This was a great brow pen at first. It has a really precise brush tip, a good amount of pigment, and actually made hair-like strokes instead of just smudging all over the place. Unfortunately, the brush tip began to leak after a while – the same thing happened with my Vieve liquid liner, so it might just be a feature of certain brush-tip liner pens. I bought it in a lighter shade (ash brown) which is a) a little too light for me since my brow hairs are literally black, and b) starting to get leaky too, so I might have to seek a different brow pen option. Recommendations are appreciated.

NYX Micro Brow Pencil in Ash Brown

Why is the NYX brow pen in ash brown too light, but the pencil in the same shade is perfect? It’s a mystery. This was the original Anastasia Brow Wiz dupe all those years ago, and it’s still an excellent, affordable product. I don’t really want to spend any more than €15 on a brow pencil, and I will not as long as this exists. I need to get my hands on another one – I’m currently using my Anastasia Dip Brow to tide me over, but that’s not exactly a breezy, five-minute-face product, is it. The line between “realistic eyebrows” and “Groucho Marx” is all too easy to cross. So I’ll be back for you, Micro Brow.

L’Oreal Lash Paradise Waterproof

Please take my word for it: This mascara is waterproof. Not a smudge, not a smear, even when I seriously put it through the wringer. I also find it holds a curl really well, and somehow makes lashes look both fluttery and voluminous (you generally have to opt for one or the other). I’ve already repurchased it. 

Thanks for reading Vanity Project, and for the kind messages after my last post. Every day I’m learning something new about living with grief. I’ve built myself a little comfort zone within my regular routine and venturing outside of that can be a struggle. But doing my makeup and skincare always made me happy, and that’s still true, so I’m delighted to be back. Thank you again <3

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But then, I unexpectedly lost my very dear friend, Nick. His passing has devastated his family, his partner, and his many friends. Losing someone so young, so full of life, the best and most talented of us, has been world-altering. I barely feel like the person I was before it happened. One day I’m fine (which, I’ve come to learn, simply means “distracted”), and the next, I’m absolutely shattered all over again. There can be other emotions around grief, as Evan Ross Katz recently wrote in his newsletter, and I guess it’s all about how close I am (or how close I allow myself to get) to it on any given day. But it’s still fresh, and I need time.

I’ll be back soon, I’m sure, but thanks for reading – and to my paid subscribers, I really appreciate your support. I’ll see you all in a little while.

When they announced a spinoff beauty line, they didn’t need to ask me to buy in. I was already there. The packaging? The marketing? The ethos of “skin first, makeup second”? THE PINK? There had never been anything like it, at least not in my memory. Please remember, the popular beauty look at the time was a full coverage base, drawn-on eyebrows, and extremely intricate eyeshadow. For a beauty brand to imply that one could wear anything less than a full face was unheard of.

The company has obviously gone through a lot since then. It has weathered more than a few scandals, ditched its original CEO, and been the subject of a tell-all book (which I am dying to read, BTW). Copycat brands sprung up and, in some cases, usurped it in popularity. Beauty lovers once enthralled by Glossier’s millennial pink fantasy began to scoff at its new launches and marketing efforts. One of those sniffy beauty lovers was me, as detailed in this 2021 newsletter covering every single product I had tried from the brand. But aside from an ill-fated venture into bolder cosmetics (RIP Glossier Play), throughout all this tumult, the products themselves remained firmly in their dewy, wash-of-colour, barest-hint-of-a-tint wheelhouse.

Until now, that is. Because New Glossier has created a foundation, the one thing Old Glossier was never about. Old Glossier would have been standing there in a STOP HAVING PORES t-shirt saying, why would you need that? Is your skin not absolutely stunning? Here, take this watery skin tint and shut up. But times change. Maybe New Glossier can acknowledge the existence of pores.

My “everything I’ve tried” newsletter is now slightly out of date, as I’ve since tried the Stretch concealer – not my favourite, which was a surprise, as it’s so loved by so many. It’s a bit too emollient and dare I say greasy for me. This was frustrating because it should work so well, given my eyes’ tendency to be dry as a bone. Everything I knew was telling me to be wary when the Stretch Fluid Foundation was launched late last year… but then I saw so. Many. Great. Reviews. From all sorts of trusted sources. I waited for Black Friday to get some money off the €42 price tag and made my move, grabbing a few more Ultralips while I was at it (my love for those will never die. Cranberry! What a colour). 

I used the website shade finder and my concealer shade (G11) to land on what would hopefully be my ideal match in the foundation: Light 4, light with pink undertones. I was alarmed by the Simpson-esque hue of the product in the bottle, but such is the magic of undertones – it looks seamless on my face, neutralising my pink lil nose and cheeks. 

The texture is thicker than expected; surprisingly moussey, though it feels light as air on application. For me, it’s the perfect light-to-medium coverage that can be built up where required. A few steps up from the Sculpted by Aimee HydraTint, a few steps down from the Haus Labs Triclone foundation (I reviewed both for my 2023 favourites). It’s described as having a hydrating, “natural-to-you” finish, which I find pretty accurate – it’s not super luminous, though any skincare and glowy primers will peep through, but neither is it matte. It looks and feels like skin! That makes it the ideal base for a day at the office, say, or a mill around town when I’m less than delighted with how my skin is behaving. I’ve also observed that it doesn’t get gross when I’ve been sitting in an air-conditioned building all day, which is kind of unbelievable.

Here’s a big picture of my face with it on, if that helps (I’m wearing Benetint on my lips, by the way. That’s a blast from the past):

I’ve had this foundation for around two months now and find myself reaching for it on most regular, non-glam days. I don’t need to cut it with anything to get my preferred level of coverage – it’s just right as it is. It blends quickly and wears pretty well on my combination skin (I notice a little weirdness around my nose and on healing spots as the day goes on, but those are my weird areas, so I get it). It slid right into my everyday lineup with no fuss. If that isn’t a sign that a foundation is good, I don’t know what is. 

I truly believed I wasn’t a Glossier stan anymore. But as I sit here applying the Glossier foundation, blush, eyebrow gel, and lipstick, I have to admit: I’m back on the train. Maybe I never got off.

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Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF50

I talked about this in my 2023 favourites post, so I won’t spend too much time on it here, but this was a great introduction to Asian SPF. It’s definitely not as hydrating as others, though I found that most days I didn’t really need an extra moisturising step. I’m using the Beauty of Joseon one now, and find that to have everything I need on the moisture front. I am very excited to explore more options – maybe the Isntree one next? The world is my oyster!

Hello Sunday The Everyday One SPF50

This is the second one of these I’ve finished – I picked it up again due to its handy size for travelling, then abandoned it in favour of the Biore one. I like it well enough as a moisturising SPF, though it’s clearly not my first choice. It has a very glowy finish that could become greasy for people with oilier skin. I personally like the dew. Dew me up baby.

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil

Another product I picked up on my travels! There will be a few of them in this post. This is a basic but effective Japanese cleansing oil that removed pretty much all of my makeup in one go – bar waterproof mascara, which required an extra bit of work, but nothing I’m not used to. I think if I needed a new makeup remover and this was accessible (I see it from time to time in Superdrug), I’d go for it again. The bottle I got was also a very nice size for throwing in a toiletry bag and didn’t leak, which is more than can be said for many cleansing oils.

Pestle & Mortar Vitamin C 2-Phase Serum

This has graced my empties posts many times now, and if that isn’t a sign that something’s good, I don’t know what is. I replaced it with the Image Iluma serum, which is one I used years ago and decided to try again. I’m trying to expand my Vitamin C repertoire so I have a favourite at all price points – the Image one is a tenner cheaper and more often on sale, so…

COSRX Propolis Light Ampoule

I’m actually sad this one is gone, as I’m not 100% sure you can get it over here very easily. This is a soothing, hydrating serum with a high percentage of propolis, an ingredient produced by bees that is believed to fight bacteria and infection. My skin gets irritated easily, and of course is always facing the ever-present threat of breakouts, so this felt like I was doing something nice for it. Anything that helps keep things calm and hydrated, I am all over.

Obagi Retinol 0.5

Let’s take a beat here to talk about what’s “worth” the price when it comes to skincare. These Obagi retinol serums are not cheap, but I personally don’t mind spending on active ingredients, especially retinol that’s been clinically tested and developed by dermatologists. I buy it when there’s a discount going and it usually lasts me around six months, so to me, the initial cost is borne out. I don’t spend much on cleansers, hydrating serums, or moisturisers, because they’re either not on my face long enough or simpler in formula. I also find the results from this retinol are really noticeable, more so than any other I’ve used, and I’ve tried serums from across the price spectrum. So when I recommend a more expensive skincare product, I hope you understand I’m not doing it carelessly. I’d be interested in hearing what retinol products have really worked for you – please, drop them in the comments!

Kate Somerville Exfolikate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment

2023: The year where I was like, wait, I should be exfoliating a lot less. My skin got really sensitive and angry, much like myself, so I dialled everything back and cut out all active ingredients for quite some time. Now if I exfoliate at all, it’s once every week or two just to move on the dead skin cells my retinol has turned over. Exfolikate contains a combo of lactic and salicylic acid, and is closer to a mask than a toner – you slather the green gunk on, massage it in for about 30 seconds, then leave it for a minute or two to work before washing it off. It tingles a bit, but nothing crazy, and the next morning, my skin looks shiny and new. I have another tube on the go, and this is reminding me to use it sometime this week. 

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Spray

It might not be a surprise to you that me realising I should exfoliate less led to this run of barrier-repairing empties. I loved the LRP Toleriane spray once upon a time, but it seems to have been discontinued, so I bought this one instead. It feels super hydrating, almost like a serum in its own right rather than “just” a mist. I liked using it before my hydrating serum, ofc, and also after a shower when I don’t feel like doing my whole nighttime routine just yet, but don’t want my face to become a husk. Would repurchase.

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Baume

This was also in my 2023 faves, so if you’ve read that you’ll know already: Cicaplast is almost single-handedly keeping me together. No other product has done more to repair my skin. In the week or two where I was in between tubes, I was actually lost. I need it in my life.

La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume

More “baume”! I just love that baume. This one was for the rest of my body, which was as dry and irritated as my face was last year. It’s heavy-duty stuff, but it didn’t feel heavy, sinking in quite quickly despite its richness. My one gripe is that it’s maybe too thicccc for its own delivery system, and there was quite a bit of baume that was just unreachable once I got near the bottom of the bottle. I replaced it with the Naturium Bio-Lipid Restoring Body Lotion, which has a lighter texture but feels just as moisturising.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Eye Cream

I’m going to sound like a broken record saying “This was in my 2023 favourites” but I am and it was. It brought my flaky dry eyes back from the brink and I’m on to my third tube. 

Andrew Fitzsimons Apres Sexe Texture Spray

This is the last empty that featured in the favourites, I swear. I really rely on texture spray to take my hair from meh to “Maybe it is actually styled?” and this is a great one. I also really loved the scent! I’m using a spray-in wax I got from my hairstylist at the moment, but I’ll probably go back to this afterwards.

Essence Lash Princess 

I have two of these, one waterproof, one not. Lash Princess is one I always recommend to people because it’s cheap, it’s good, and it’s easy to find. I’ll always go for the budget option when it comes to mascara, because…

MAC Stack Mascara

…It’s so rarely worth shelling out more! This was fine, especially after it dried up a little. But the brush was messy, and the bristles were maybe too spiky? Like, if you made even the slightest wrong move, it hurt. The selling point of this mascara is that you can layer coats to build the effect, but I got what I needed out of one or two coats, so that wasn’t particularly exciting to me. Not a bad mascara, but I dunno, I’ll buy another four Lash Princesses for the price instead.

Nars Afterglow Lip Balm in Orgasm

This was a bit of a strange product to me. It sits in the middle of two categories, and excels in neither of them. It wasn’t as hydrating as I’d want an actual lip balm to be, nor did it have enough colour to sit amongst my other balmy lipsticks, so I ended up just keeping it on my desk to dab on before a meeting or some such. It might be just that I didn’t like this particular shade, but I’m not very interested in trying another one to figure that out.

Giorgio Armani My Armani To Go Essence-in-Foundation Cushion

I really enjoyed this sheer, luminous cushion foundation, which was just the ticket when I was searching high and low for a lighter daytime base. Now that I’ve found Sculpted By Aimee HydraTint, I’m not rushing to buy a refill right this instant, but I’ve kept the case should the need ever strike me. 

Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter

Look, I don’t really know if I totally finished this or not – the packaging of this is as impenetrable as the the Pentagon. But it felt like time to replace the bottle for various reasons, it being old as hell a main one. You know my feelings on this. I love it. I so rarely do my makeup without it, though I have been experimenting with some other glow boosters, like the Saie Glowy Super Gel (though that is closer to Glossier Futuredew than FF). This was in Shade 4 and I replaced it with Shade 2, which is more of a pearly-champagne than gold and matches my complexion a little better. A forever favourite at this stage.

Thank you for reading Vanity Project! The next instalment shall be a review of the Glossier foundation. Spoiler alert: I’m into it. See you then!

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(I somehow published the last one without any links to the products. I know people can Google and all but they’re there now for ease of reference.)

JVN Hair Complete Air Dry Cream

I’ve mentioned this in quite a few empties posts by now, so to be brief: I rarely blow dry my hair, just out of pure laziness, and a little bit of this helps to define my waves and keep things cute enough until I can persuade myself to heat style. One of these days I’m going to buy the full size instead of being constantly tempted by mini sets, I swear.

Andrew Fitzsimons Apres Sexe Texture Spray

Texture spray has always been a key product in my haircare arsenal, but now that my hair is short, I rarely go without it. I loved how this lifted my thick, heavy hair without leaving it crunchy or sticky, which is not guaranteed with all texture sprays. The JVN Air Dry Cream + this = hair that could reasonably pass for being actually styled. And when I actually do blow dry my hair, it’s all over for you bitches.

Maison Margiela REPLICA Jazz Club

This was my most worn fragrance of the year – I bought it as my wedding perfume, wore it through the summer despite it being a distinctly autumn/winter scent, and now it’s settling nicely into all my cosy knitwear. I think I just like these rich, slightly masculine, autumnal fragrances all year round. It’s boozy and smoky and sweet and delicious, and now I’m quite sentimental about it, of course. I can see myself loving this for a long time. 

Palmers Coconut Hydrate Body Oil

It really took me this long to discover body oil! Apply straight after the shower on still-damp skin, and enjoy some actual moisture on your body for once you desiccated freak. Seriously though – it’s quicker to apply than regular body lotion (though I sometimes do the two, if I’m arsed and in need of yet more hydration), dries in fast, and in this case, leaves you smelling gorgeously of coconut. My husband touched my calf the other day and said “No one’s leg should be this soft,” a compliment I will take with me to the grave. Oil yourselves up girls.

CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser

I’ve been pretty choosy with skincare favourites, since I flit through things like cleansers and hydrating serums, so the following products are things I’ve repurchased or saw notable results from. I’m on to my second thing of this, and I think I can confidently assert that it is my favourite of the CeraVe cleansing formulas. All the gentleness of a cream cleanser with the satisfying clean feeling of a foam. 

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 and Toleriane Dermallergo eye cream

These saved my bacon so many times this year. My skin freaked out before the wedding (because of course it did), resulting in painfully dry eyes and scaly cheeks. The Toleriane eye cream de-lizard-ed my eyes, and I’ve been using it ever since – if it works, it works, and I’m not willing to risk inflaming my eyes again at the moment. Cicaplast similarly came in clutch for the rest of my face, and I still use it now to treat healing spots, soothe dry or irritated patches, and even as a kind of sleeping mask when things get dicey again, as they so often do. My poor skin barrier, LOL.

Obagi Retinol 0.5 and 1.0

I had been using the Skinceuticals retinol, but when I couldn’t find the next strength for love nor money, I switched to this one on the recommendation of multiple South William Clinic staff members. I didn’t see a huge difference going from 0.3 to 0.5, but 0.5 to 1.0? Woo! My skin is noticeably (to me, anyway) smoother, less textured, more glowy, especially on my forehead. The anti-ageing effects will obviously only be seen in the long term, but for now, I’m pleased with the results.

Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF50+++

As someone who has been interested in Asian skincare for a while now, I was really late to the party with Asian sunscreen. I literally had to go to Asia to try it, but I’m so glad I did. This Biore one is excellent – non-greasy, decently moisturising, good under makeup – and I’m grateful to it for giving me the push to explore even more Asian SPF products (such as the very popular Beauty of Joseon one, which is predictably gorgeous). Is it annoying that I’m now into products that aren’t readily available in a pharmacy near me? Yeah. But I am an annoying person, so that tracks.

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Regular nail appointments

Hello, I have a regular beauty appointment now, and I love it. BIAB has obviously been a game-changer for my nails, and I’ve written about that in more detail before, but beyond that, getting my nails done every three to four weeks has made me really happy. I don’t get my brows or my eyelashes or anything else done, so this is my treat. I was a biter and a cuticle picker and a hangnail chewer; I don’t do that any more. I feel so put together, and now that my nails are long, like I have elegant lady hands. I love getting nail art inspired by whatever I have going on that month – silver chrome for a music festival, basic bitch glazed donut for a wedding, a glittery red French mani with tiny golden bows for Christmas. It sparks joy in a big way.

Adidas Gazelle Bolds in pink

Surprise! It’s a… fashion favourite? IDK, let’s spice things up a little. I love these little bitches. I used to hee hee ha ha at how Irish women of a certain age love a flat shoe with a wee platform, but now I’ve changed my tune. I’m 5ft 2, and you’re telling me I can get some extra height while staying comfortable? Sign me up. I went to a rugby match in the Aviva during the summer (long story) and as we were going in, a posh lady goes to me, “LOVE your Gazelles.” I tell you, I sparkled. They were trendy this year, yes, but I will probably keep wearing them once they’re not cool and rat myself out as the millennial I am. 

Regatta x Orla Kiely coat 

As you can see, I remarked when I bought this that I had completed my full OMGWACA transformation. Be that as it may, this coat is fantastic. It’s huge, it’s warm, it’s loudly patterned, and it has people shouting after me on the street asking where I got it. So yeah, if you don’t want to attract attention, it’s not for you, but I personally don’t mind cutting about in a giant yellow flowery sleeping bag. I really resent having to buy anything practical, so I managed to find the most impractical version of a practical coat. Score.

That fucking Uniqlo bag

I’m sorry, but every second woman has this bag for a reason. It holds a ton, I’m not afraid of it getting dirty or bashed around, it looks relatively cute, and it’s affordable. My friends and I went to Lanzarote in November and all four of us turned up with one of these each. We took photos to commemorate the occasion.

Books’n’Substacks

This was my worst year for reading in a long time but listen, I did have a lot going on. Let me offer a few recommendations anyway.

• Tomorrow, and Tomorrow, and Tomorrow by Gabrielle Zevin: I didn’t really think a novel about video games would make me think so much about the nature of creativity and art, but here we are. It centres on a group of friends who make a best-selling video game, charting their rise to fame, rivalries, unrequited love, the whole lot.

• Say Nothing by Patrick Radden Keefe: I am a PRK stan – I tell everyone to read Empire of Pain and also devoured his collection of New Yorker articles this year – but this is an exceptional piece of nonfiction, chronicling the Troubles through the lives of a few central figures.

• Aisling Ever After by Emer McLysaght and Sarah Breen: What a lovely end to the OMGWACA series, truly. The care Emer and Sarah have for their main gal is evident and while Aiso did a lot over the five books, I loved the return to the cosy hometown vibes.

And here are a few fellow Substackers I subscribe to and read regularly – there are many more, but here are the ones who slid into my inbox most recently.

• by Rosemary Mac Cabe: I really love how frankly and naturally Rosemary writes about life, motherhood, and relationships, and of course I am a nosy bitch who reads every word of her money diaries every week.

• by Louise Bruton: Louise’s essays and reviews are essential reading on the ways in which this country is and is not serving disabled people. My fiver a month is money well spent.

• : Another Louise! The bestselling author is now on Substack, and her pieces are full of wisdom and humour that I’m finding very comforting at the moment.

Thanks for reading Vanity Project this year, whether you’re a paying or free subscriber. I very much appreciate your support! I’ve donated the proceeds from December to UNICEF’s Gaza Crisis Emergency Appeal. I’m hoping for a more peaceful 2024.